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THE WISE GUIDE 

TO 
Historic Places in Virginia 

1607-1907. 



EDITED BY 

KATE: e:llis wise. 



VIRGINIA PRINTING & PUB. COMPANY 
HAMPTON. VA. 






LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
Two CooJes Received 
MAY 28 190r 



.ASS A XXcNo. 
COPY B. _| 



COPYRIGHTED 1907 
KATE ELLIS WISE. 



Indebtedness is hereby acknowlvdged for the valuable assistance and data obtained 
from the following works: Smith's Gsnerall Historie, Chandler's History of Virginia^ 
Cooke's Virginia, Ben. Butler's Book, McClellan's Own Story, Grant's Memoirs, Life of 
Robert E. Lee, by Jones, The Cradle of the Republic, by Tyler, and William and Mary 
College Quarterlies, and from the thrice told tales of loved ones who witnessed the scenes of 
other days and whose inspiration prompted the research which led to this 
"GUIDE." 



Affectionately Dedicated to 
VIRGINIA HEDGES 

Who graciously bears the name of 

'The Mother of States" 

And to whose spirit liberty is as dear 

As it was to her forbears in 

Old Virginia. 



PREFACE. 

Before the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock, fourteen 
thousand Cavalier Colonists had landed in the "Old Domin- 
ion" and Virginia had given to the nation the 

First Trial by jury, 

First Marriage, 

First Birth of a white child, 

First Legislative Assembly, 

First Fort, 

First Church, 

First American Glass Factory, 

First Iron Foundry, 

First Salt Works, 

First Marriage of Englishman to an hidian girl. 

First Tobacco Culture, 

First Socialistic and Communistic community. 

First Execution, 

First Christian Baptism, 

First Treaty, 

First Gospel to the Indians, 

Pocahontas the first American heroine had lived, loved, 

married in this fair land, aye had died and been buried 

across the seas before the Pilgrims landed on the New 

England coast, and her kingly father Powhatan, after laying 



down his scepter with royal dignity, had gone to the "happy 
hunting ground," having been denied the felicity of a 
knowledge of the great Boston yet to be founded. 

The soil of Virginia was Divinely chosen as the place 
worthy of bearing the First-Fruits of civilization in 
the new world. Many years before the Pilgrims landed on 
Plymouth Rock, Virginia had laid the foundations of Gov- 
ernment and builded thereon. Henry A. Wise, one of 
Virginia's loyal sons thus speaks of her: 

''Here the old world first met the new. Here 
the white man first met the red for settlement and 
civilization. Here the white man first wielded the 
axe to cut the FIRST TREE for the- first log cabin. 
Here the FIRST LOG CABIN was built for the FIRST 
Village. Here the FIRST Village rose to be the 
First State Capital. Here was the First Capi- 
tal of our empire of States. Here was the very 
foundation of a nation of freemen, which has 
stretched its dominion and its millions across the 
continent to the shores of another ocean." 

Virginia "liveth not unto herself." Her influence has 
been salutary, not selfish, and the oppressed of every 
nation live in hope of freedom, being inspired by the exam- 
ple of her three sons — Mason, Jefferson, Washington — who 
gave to the world the Declaration of Independence. "From 
beginning to end it was the work of Virginia. A Virginia 
planter conceived it; a Virginia lawyer drafted it; and a 
Virginia Soldier defended it and made it a living realily." 




;MM>'^^^" 



YV7HEN the three ships, the ''Good 
Poynt W Speed," ''Susan Constant" and 

^^'^■^'"*' "Discoverer," bearing the first settlers 
reached the Chespeake Bay (Mother of Waters) they 
were driven by violent storms to the western shore of the 
Bay, where shelter was found, and in commemoration 
thereof, they named the place Poynt Comfort. 

When the early settlers in America obtained royal char- 
ters from King James I, the government of the Virginia 
Colony was intrusted to the London Company, of which 
Capt. John Smith and Bartholomew Gosnold were the lead- 
ing spirits. In 1609 King James enlarged the boundaries 
of the Southern Colony. The lines were run from Poynt 
Comfort and included "all the territory 200 miles to 
to the North and 200 miles to the South, of Old Poynt, 
and to reach up into the land from sea to sea." 

Afterwards Poynt Comfort was called Old Point Com- 
fort, to distinguish it from New Point Comfort, just across 
tht^ Bay near Cape Charles. 



Landing at Old Point Comfort the first sight that looms 
up in huge proportions is the Chamberlin Hotel. Here all 
the year round the belles from all points of the compass 
congregate, where they are fanned by the southern breezes 
and cheered by the merry company of Army and Navy 
officers, who are stationed at the Fort, or whose vessels 
are anchored in the Bay, and the halcyon hours of youth 
are joyfully passed away — of youth — for one never grows 
old at Point Comfort — as time does not write her records 
on the cheeks of those who wander through the long cor- 
ridors of palms, escorted by a Prince Charming in uniform. 

The hotel is built on the government Reservation. 





1:4 







T^O the right of the hotel is a view of 

the stone walls of Fortress Mon- 
IVIonroe ^^^ 

The Superiority of Poynt Comfort as a vantage ground, 
was realized at an early day and the English colonists in 
1609 erected a fort there, as a precaution against the 
Spaniards who claimed the Continent. 

'T'HE first Fort was called ''Algeroune 
Algcroune 1 p^^.^,, .^^ ^^^^^^^ ^^ William Alger- 

oune de Percy. 

Capt. John Ratclifie was the fu'st Commander of the 
Fort. 

'The first Fort contained seven pieces of artillery, two 
of thirty-five 'quintals' and the others thirty, twenty and 
eighteen — all of iron." 



TV/HEN President George Percv re. 



^ - '' turned to England in April, 161^, 
the name of the Fort was changed to 
Port -Poynt Comfort Fort." 

The Fort had various commanders from 1612 to 1665 
when the General Assembly of Virginia appointed Capt. 
William Bassett to build a new Fort at Jamestown, but 
the King did not approve the change of site and ordered 
the Fort rebuilt at Poynt Comfort. The Assembiy re- 
fused to obey the orders of the King and ordered Forts to 
be built at five separate points adjacent to Hampton Roads. 
The neglected condition of Fort Povnt Comfort enabled 



the Dutch Man of War in 1673 to invade the waters and 
destroy the shipping by tire as they had done in 1667. 

_ ^ TN 1622 Poynt Comfort Fort was re- 

port 1 , •, ,u 

paired and again the name was 
^ changed to Fort George in honor of 

the King, and retained this name until 18 19 when the 
present Fort was built and called Fort Monroe. 

Its mediaeval walls, high ramparts, deep moat, and 
heavy guns look formidable to a foe, while in fact 
never once since its construction has a hostile shot been 
fired therefrom, and Fortress Monroe has, since the first 
stone was laid, kept silent watch at the point which 
guards the entrance to the Capital at Washington, and the 
cities of Baltimore, Norfolk and Richmond, 

In 1818 surveys and plans were made for a United 
States military fortification at Old Point Comfort by 
General Simon Bernard, a former French Army Engineer 
and aide-de-camp to the first Napoleon. The Fort was 
begun in March, 18 19, the work was carried on by mili- 
tary prison labor and was finished in February, 1824, and 
named Fort Monroe in honor of President James Monroe. 

The original 80 acres which were ceded by Virginia 
as a site for a Military Post, have since been augmented, 
the government Reservation now includes about 400 acres. 

The granite walled ramparts are 35 feet high, the moat 
is 103 feet wide, and contains 6 feet of water. The 
water in the moat ebbs and flows with the tide. 



Fortress Monroe is the largest fortification in the United 
States. 

It is the best Artillery Post. 

About 100 officers and 200 enlisted men are sta- 
tioned at the Fort (1907.) 

It was the first Fort built by the United States for 
Coast Defences. 

The open plat of ground opposite the Chamberlin 
is the site of of the old Hygeia Hotel, so dear in memories 
to the older inhabitants. 

Facing the sea is a row of new brick buildings, to 
be used for officers quarters. The building with colonial 
columns is assigned to the Commander of the Fort, the 
buildings on either side to field officers, the large double 
quarters on the extreme left are for officers at the Fort. 

Situated on the main road is a large red brick build- 
ing, with a clock in the cupola, which is the United States 
Post office. 

The old building back of the Post Office has not always 
been surrounded with the peaceful atmosphere of to-day. 
The stone walls were long used as a "bull pen" where 
recalcitrant negroes were confined. These negroes were 
hired from their masters for a stated sum., and used by the 
government in the building of the Fort in the earlier days. 

Opposite the Post Office is the proposed site of the New 
Artillery school building, the iron fence which encloses 
this land is made of bayonets used in the Civil War on 
the battlefields of Petersburg and Richmond; the gun- 



barrels that are smooth-bore belonged to the Confederates 
and those that had rifles were used by the Union Army. 

The next two buildings are engineer and ordinance 
store -houses. 

Opposite a sentry paces to and fro in front of a 
bridge leading into the postern gate of the Fort. 

Officers quarters extend to the end of the square on 
Main street. The street running west leads to the 
Quartermaster's Office, and C. &0. Depot. At the intersec- 
tion of Main street, are the Sherwood \nn and St. Mary's 
Church, called the ''Star of the Sea." 

To the right is a large building, donated by Helen 
Gould, to the Y. M. C. A. of the Army. 

Back of the Y. M. C. A. is an old mine Magazine, 
which was covered with sand by General Butler to pro- 
tect it in case of a land attack by the the Confederate 
forces. 

To the right of the Y. M. C. A. is a wide bridge 
across the moat leading into the main entrance of the 
Fort. Inscribed on the arch over the inside entrance 
is the United States Coat of Arms, with, a memorial 
inscription to a Pennsylvania Infantry and United States 
Artillery Regiments. 

Passing the sentry and turning down the first street 
to the right leads to the first building, which is used as 
the Master Gunners School. The second building is the 
Officers' Library. 



At the end of this street is the tirst front of case- 
mates extending from the entrance of the postern gate 
to the incline approach to the ramparts where the flag 
pole is located. The second and fourth casemates next 
to the postern gate were the places where Jefferson Davis 
and his Secretary were imprisoned. Jefferson Davis occu- 
pied No 2 and his Secretary No. 4. Jefferson Davis' 
family shared his hist year of imprisonment in casemates 
No. 10, second front. 

At the end of this row of casements is the entrance to 
the Officers-' Club. 

Mounting the ramparts a fine view of the surrounding 
country may be seen. Back of the flag staff are the 
saluting guns. 

An old observation tower, which looks like a Span- 
ish block house, is near. 

A path over the ramps and ramparts leads to a modern 
observation tower, where ships are sighted and the wires 
leading therefrom extend to Batteries Irwin and Parrott. 




Across the moat from this point may be seen the fog 
Bell, which rings almost incessantly day and night during 
a fog. 

The view from the ramparts successfully rivals the In- 
land Sea of Japan. The outstretched arms of Hampton 
Roads carressingly encircle the surrounding shores; 
westward the beautiful James River is winding its way 
from the modern City of Seven Hills where it found a peace- 
ful entrance in the erstwhile capital of the Confederate 
States, while southward the Elizabeth River brings its 
traffic to Norfolk, the great Southern seaport. Looking sea- 
ward "as far as the human eye can see" the waves of the 
Chesapeake ("Mother of Waters") stretch toward the great 
Atlantic, but ere her waters meet and mingle with the ocean 
they have to pass the two capes, Charles and Henry, 
(named for the two sons of King James I), which like stern 
sentinels guard the entrance to Fortress Monroe. Should 
the eye of sense fail, the eye of the imagination may see afar 
to the northeast the York River leading to Yorktown, of his- 
toric fame. 

From the ramparts of Fort Monroe people swarmed 
to watch the historic battle between the Monitor and the 
Merrimac — the engagement which revolutionized naval 
warfare. 

The problem of the drinking water supply for Fortress 
Monroe during the Civil War, was solved by General But- 
ler erecting a plant to distill sea-water taken from the moat. 



by converting it into steam and allowing the steam to 
condense. The expense of this drinking water was a 
pound of coal for a pint of water. 

On the edge of the moat back of Batteries Irwin 
and Parrott are the old water batteries which have lately 
been partially torn down and the guns dismantled. Ex- 
tending up the Beach from Battery Parrott are Batter- 
ies Custis, DeRussy, Montgomery, Church, Anderson and 
Ruggles. Around the moat on the north side are Batteries 
Charles Humphrey, Thos. Barber and Bombard. Over the 
East Gate or Rampart is Battery Gatewood. 

Following the path to the East Gate a drawbridge at 
tracts attention. 

\n former times when the sunset gun was fired and 
the flag lowered at retreat, the drawbridge was raised and 
the heavy iron-studded gate closed until sunrise. At pres- 
ent the East and North gates are closed at sunset. 

In compliance with the regulations for all military posts 
and camps, just at sunset the band plays the National air, 
the evening gun is fu'ed, and the flag lowered. 

The houses on the inside of the Fort are almost all 
officer's quarters. The large house, opposite the East Gate, 
where may be seen a drawbridge, and portcullis, is the old- 
est house in the Fort and until 1907 used as Commanding 
officers quarters. 

The large building next seen is "The Tuelleries," named 
by the French engineer who constructed it. It is occupied by 



officer's families. In front is a beautitul holly tree, whose 
berries are red for seven months in the year. The trail- 
ing vine which covers many of the houses and walls is the 
famous Virginia Creeper, which remains green all the year. 

Opposite, across the parade grounds, is the Model Bar- 
racks — the largest in America, where four of the twelve 
companies in the Fort are quartered. 

The large trees stretching their long green branches 
across the beautiful walks are live oaks, said to have been 
brought from England. They are more than a hundred 
years old. 

The large oak in the center of the parade ground, near 
the corner of the smaller barracks, and almost directly 
opposite the Main Entrance, is the tree under which Jeffer- 
son Davis, the President of the Confederacy, was re- 
leased. 

hiteresting trophies of the Revolutionary War are in 
the oak Grove in front of the "Chapel of the Centurian." 
The cannons and balls in Trophy Park were surrendered 
by Cornwallis at Yorktown in 1781, and one brass cannon 
surrendered by Burgoyne at Saratoga 1777. 

Opposite the Main Entrance may be seen a sun dial 
imbedded in the ground. 

In the rear of the "Modern Barracks" is the new 
Gymnasium Building, the Guard House, the Post Ex- 
change, and the Gardens. 

Leaving the Fort by the Main Entrance the first build- 

2;^ 



ing to the right is the Administration Building and Printing 
Office. 

Next to the Fire Department is the Hospital. 

The long one story building is the Artillery School. It 
was established tor the higher technical education of officers 
of the Army in Balistics, Chemistry, Electricity, Sea-coast 
Defence, Artillery proper, and special lines in their profession. 
The school was established in 1867 under the command of 
Brevet Major W. F. Berry. 

Next to the Artillery School are two sets of Bachelor's 
Quarters, and opposite are Officer's Quarters. 

The Poynt Comfort Inn is a private enterprise built 
on Government Reservation. 

Guard Mount daily (except Sunday) at 11:30 a.m. 

Guard Mount Sunday at 9:30 a. m. 

Parade, with Butts Manual to music, daily (except 
Saturday and Sunday) io:ioa.m. 



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,^^ , T^HE bridge which joins Old Point 

B-*hoeE3tiS I 

and Phoebus is replete with memo- 
ries. It was here that the first flag of truce was seen dur- 
ing the Civil War, when Major Carey of the Confed- 
erate forces sought an interview with General Butler in re- 
gard to three runaway negro slaves of Colonel Mallory, who 
had taken refuge in Fortress Monroe. General Butler held 
the negroes "contraband of war" and refused to return 
them. The consultation lasted four hours, during which 
time Major Carey and General Butler rode up the beach to 
Buck Roe. 

Josiah Simpson Hospital is located between Phoebus 
and Buck Roe. Many veterans of the Spanish War retain 
vivid recollections of the Hospital, which received patients 
from the tented city of Newport News, and convalescents 
from the Cuban campaign. 

-^ - -^ DUCKROE was the site chosen 

Buck Roe D ,- ,, - , ,• i a- f i 

^^ ^ for the establishment of grape cul- 

ture, and here the French Vigner- 
ons, brought over by Antony Bonall in 1621, instructed the 
people how to raise grapes and make wine. 

At the junction of County and Mallory streets in Phoe- 
bus transfers are given to car lines leading to Buck Roe 
Beach and the Soldier's Home. At the terminus of the 
line is the former home of Harrison Phoebus, the founder 
of the town and long known as the proprietor of the 
Hygeia Hotel. At the end of the street is the entrance 



i 




» \I^ ^P^^ ^^^ ^^^^ more beautifully 
Soldier s IM gj^jj^ted than this home for dis- 
riome ^^^jg^ Volunteer Soldiers— as far 

as the eye can reach there is a constantly changing scene — 
the waters of the Bay send their murmuring waves against 
the sea wall that borders the beautiful grounds, tall trees 
and blooming flowers enhance the beauty of the place. On 
the rows of seats may be seen the old soldiers in all degrees 
of decrepitude — there they sit day by day watching boats 
go out to sea until Charon comes with his boat to row them 
to the other shore. Nowhere is he nation's gratitude more 
fittingly shown toward the valiant men who served in the 
hour of need. 

The large central building with the dome was formerly 
used as a female college, and was built by the Baptists in 
1857, at a cost of about $63,000.00. It was taken by the 
government in 1861 and used as the Chesapeake Hospital, 
and later as Headquarters for the Military. General Butler 
purchased the property and sold it to the United States m 
1870, and since that time all the other buildings have been 
erected. 

The Ward Memorial Hall is of special interest. Horatio 
Ward, of England, bequeathed $10,000.00 for the use of 
disabled soldiers and sailors. This Home obtained a share 
of the bequest. 

The point west of Soldier's Home facing Hampton 
Creek vvas called during the war "Bull Pen." it was en- 
closed and used to confine Confederate prisoners. 

30 



The large theater is well equipped with scenery and 
some of the best artists of the country have trodden its 
boards. The old soldiers are very exacting critics of drama- 
tic performances. 

The Band Stand near the centre of the grounds is where 
the Band, one of the best in the State, discourses sweet 
music for the benefit of the old soldiers, daily at 3 p. m., 
except when funeral services are held. 

Across the grounds from the Band Stand, near the sea 
wall is the residence of the Governor of the Home, and 
in the rear of this building is the Administration Building. 

The Library with its many thousands of volumes donat- 
ed by sympathetic friends of the veterans is open daily and 
together with newspapers and magazines, is a great source 
of comfort to the disabled warriors in their declining years. 

Other pleasant diversions are fishing, boating, salt 
water bathing, wandering through the grounds along the 
broad roadway which extend in rear of the esplanade. 
Some are sitting under the beautiful trees relating stories 
of the past, and in memory living over the deeds of valor 
whose bugle blasts even now seem to them to surge near 
and die away with the whispering tides. 

In the midst of the flower gardens is a monument 
erected to the memory of Colonel Woodfin, the first 
Governor of the Home. The cost of this shaft was de- 
frayed by the invalid inmates of the Home. 

On the lawn in front of this building can be seen one 
of the most beautiful panoramas in America, out before 



us in the dim distance are tlie full rig^^ed sailing vessels en- 
tering Hampton Roads from the Virginia capes. Still closer 
loom up the fortifications of Fortress Monroe and Fort Wool, 
while the Chamberlin Hotel presents a beautiful blending 
of color with sea and sky. Near by on the left is Hamp- 
ton Creek, filled with sailing crafts of trade and pleasure. 
To the immediate right the tall elevators at Newport News 
tower like grim sentinels near the mouth of the James River. 
Off to the right of these is Sewell's Point, occupied 
by a Confederate Battery in 1862, and now the site of the 
Jamestown Exposition. Rising above the pine groves on 
Sewell's Point are clouds of smoke from Norfolk. In the 
distance is Craney Island, near where the Confederates de- 
stroyed the Merrimac. 

Soldier's Home covers more than 200 acres. 

At present there are 3,800 inmates of the Soldier's Home, 
about 1,000 of whom are away on leave of absence. 

There are 100 Mexican veterans at the Home. 

Five hundred thousand dollais in pensions are paid the 
old soldie s. 

On the sight of the Soldier's Home, before the dawn of 
our history, Powahatan placed one of his sons— as ruler — 
one of the under kings to the great Emperor, it was un- 
der Pochins' rule that the Indians of Kecoughton killed 
Humphrey Blunt. This so incensed the whites that, led by 
Gates, they not only attacked the Indians and drove the 
whole tribe from the Kecoughton Territory, but also sought 
to wipe out every memory of them by changing the name 
of the place to Elizabeth City. 




SOLDIER-S HOME 

^, ^. , eiTUATED between the Soldier's 

National O ^ ^ ^i m i c i . 

^ Home and the Norinal School 

^ Grounds is an Old National Cem- 

etery, which has been filled by military interments. It 
was established in 1866 and here rest the remains of 
4,690 known and 47^ unknown warrior dead of the Union 
Army, and 285 Confederates, who died while prisoners of 
war. The last burial was made here about fifteen years 
ago. At the entrance the following tribute greets the eye: 

••On Fame's enternal ;-ninpin^ uroiiiul 
Their silent tents are spread 

And glorj- ajuards with solemn round 
The bivouac of the dead.'' 

hi the center of the park of marble slabs towers a 
granite monument, built stone on stone to the height of 175 



33 



feet. It is enclosed within a circular fence of bayoneted 
gun barrels supported by cannon posts, and on the four 
faces of the monument appear the insignia of infantry, 
cavalry, artillery 1861 to 1865, the United States Coat 
of Arms, and an inscription "In memory of Union Soldiers 
who died to maintain the laws." This shaft was erected 
by Dorothy Dix aided by subscription to the amount 
of about $50,000,00. 

"-The green mold and decay upon the stone wall which 
encloses the cemetery grounds are half hidden by the em- 
bracing foliage of Virginia creeper. The" waving, fringed, 
boughs of pine, the gnarled limbs of live oaks and the clus- 
tering green leaves of the magnolias in loving tenderness 
seek to protect the rows of time eaten marble headstones 
from the ravages of age; while the graves and spaces 
between are blanketed over with pine needles, which 
soften the footfall of the reverent visitor until the fu'm tread 
of the angel shall be heard as he blows the reville which 
shall summon the '^varrior spirits to greet the warrior's 
banner." The simple, uniform headstones here testify 
to the democracy of death, for the same style stone marks 
the resting place of officer and private as they are laid side 
by side. 

The new cemetery is near the old one to the east. 
There have been about three thousand interments to date. 
At present there is an average or about twentv burials 
of the old veterans a month, which too sadly reminds 
us that soon the survi\'ors of the Great War will be 
with us no longer. 

Near the new cemeteiy are the Dixie llospital, and the 
Whittier Training School for negro children under the 
control of the Hampton Normal School. 



CEAT of the Hampton Normal and 

l^*^*^ S Agricultural institute, designed to 

give negroes and indianS; an idus- 

trial training. The original farm of 

125 acres bordering on Hampton Creek, one half mile 




V 



I 



■i 



I 



VIEW OF NORMAL SCHOOL 



south of Hampton, were purchased by the American 
Missionary Association in 1867 at the instance of General 
S. C. Armstrong. Present enroUment of indians 100; 
negroes 1 1 80. The most disth^iguished graduate of the school 
is Booker T. Washington. The first cargo of negro slaves 
was landed not far from this school in 161Q, and this was 
the fu'st school founded for the industrial training of the 
negro. It is under philanthropic and non-sectarian control. 

There are but two buildings in the Normal School 
grounds that were there before the war, and these have 
been remodeled; one is the residence of Dr. H. B. Frissell, 
which formerly belonged to Dr. Wood, and the other was 
used "fore de war" for a school building for colored chil- 
dren, and is now the Whittier School. 

The school grounds now contain 188 acres exclusive 
of Shellback farm. 

Total graduates 1158; ex-students, not graduates, 5,000; 
trade school graduates, 277; Indian graduates, 96. 

In twelve counties in the immediate vicinity of the school 
90 per cent of the negro farmers own and manage their 
own farms. 

Near this industrial school for the negro is the place 
where Captain John Smith first instituted an industrial 
policy for the white colonists when he declared that 
if a colonist would not work neither should he eat. 



Hampton 
Brids^e 



'T'HE rows of houses between the 
Normal School and Hampton Bridge, 
are historic. 

President Tyler's old mansion, a red frame building, is 

just across Hampton Creek, second house from the bridge. 

The large red brick house on the Creek was the home 

of Colonel Mallory, the Commander of the Virginia forces. 



i 





HAMPTON CREEK 



These together with the three homes on the right were con- 
fiscated and used by the Freedman's Bureau to house negro 



amilies after the burning of Hampton and until tlie 
:ermination of the Civil War. 

At the beginning of the Civil War the Virginia Militia 
ittempted to burn the bridge over Hampton Creek, at the 
entrance to the town from the Fort Monroe side, but were 
M'evented from doing so by the Federal forces under 
Colonel Phelps, of a Vermont Regiment, whose troops 
:harged at a double quick and saved the bridge, and then 
)ccupied the town. 

■p^IRST landing place of the early 

Hampton English settlers in April, 1607. 

They were hospitably received 

)y a tribe of hidians. Hampton is described by Capt. 

John Smith as "A place that so turneth itself into bayes 

md creekes, it makes that place very pleasant to inhabit." 

hi September, 1607, during a famine. Captain John Smith 
;ailed down the James River searching for corn, which the 
ribe of hidians at Hampton refused him; he tired a vol- 
ey, captured their idol, seized their supplies and returned 
Jamestown. 

Hampton is noted as a place where the people have 
)layed an important part in making history. The town 
vas successfully defended during the Revolutionary War 
>y the inhabitants, aided by a rifle company, against the 
British fleet in 1775. 

Hampton was burned by General Magruder in August^ 
861, many of the citizens setting fire to their own homes 

:}8 



in order to prevent them from being occupied by General 
Butler's forces, then at Fortress Monroe. General Magruder 
with 3,000 Gonfederates were in camp on Back River. 

Hampton has 10,000 population, and the principal 
streets are King and Queen. Principal industry is trade 
in fish, oysters and crabs. The largest crab factory in 
the world is on Hampton Greek opposite the Normal 
School. This factory has the exclusive use of a canning 
fluid that preserves crabs in cans in any climate. 

it was here that General Washington laid the plan 
which culminated in the surrender of the British at York- 
town. 

Hampton was captured by the British Navy in 181 3. 

The hidian name of Hampton was "Kecoughtan; it was 
settled by the English in 1610, surrounded by earthworks 
erected in colonial times and later by Union and Gonfed- 
erate armies. 

Hampton is laid out in the shape of a Bow-and-Arrow. 

it is the site of the first free school in America, 
Syms-Eaton Academy — 1634. The original site is still used 
for school purposes. It is situated at the entrance of the 
town, from Phoebus opposite the great bank of oyster shells 
on Hampton Greek. 

in 1642 Benjamin Syms died, leaving 200 acress of land 
for free schools. This was increased later by Thomas 
Eaton's gift of 400 acres of land for the same purpose. 

39 



It is the oldest continuous English settlement in the 
country, Jamestown having been abandoned as a place 
of residence. 

The first harbor where the early colonists landed. 

The town and surrounding territory were originally called 
Kecoughtan, this being the name of a tribe of hidians in. 
habiting this region. Later the name was changed to 
Hampton, in honor of the first president of the London 
Company, the Earl of Southampton. 

One of the signers of the Declaration of Independence, 
George Wythe, was born on an estate near Hampton. He 
was the first Chancellor of the Court of Equity. 

Hampton was oftimes the rendevous of Blackbeard, the 
famous old pirate, who sent terror to the hearts of the 
early settlors. The British Sloop "Ottie" in command of 
Captain Squires was burned by the inhabitants of Ham- 
ton, who thus retaliated for former indignities. The Brit- 
ish withdrew for a time, only to return in battle array a 
month later. 

At a cove in Hampton Creek was built in early years 
a fort called Fort Defiance; a modern stone residence now 
occupies the site, which is opposite the Normal School. 

February 27th 1634, Leonard Calvert and his colon- 
ists stopped at Hampton enroute to found the colony of 
Maryland. 

April 29th 1700, an English Man-of War ''Shoreham" 
after an obstinate fight overcame a pirate ship which 



had been playing havoc along the coast. 

Hampton of old was called the ''Game Cock Town," 
which of recent date has been held to have been applied 
to her on account of the valiant manner in which she met 
the vicissitudes and fortunes of war. Ante-bellum tales 
are fraught with chronicles of the great cock mains that 
were held in the nearby counties of Norfolk, Princess Anne, 
Nansemond and Henrico, and among the quaint and curious 
records still preserved in the Court House, at Hampton, is 
one which shows that in 1644 forty-six persons were fined 
so many pounds of tobacco for non-attendance at church. 
It is presumed that these parties might have been unavoid- 
ably absent from church while attending the cock fights in 
aJjoining counties. 

hi 181 2 Adniral Cockburn, Commander of the British 
fleet, attempted to land at Hampton Creek, but was repulsed 
by heavy fire from the shore. He finally effected a landing 
further up the stream (near LaSalle Ave. and Boulevard,) 
burned the town and committed outrages which so aroused 
the inhabitants that they arose enmasse and forced him 
to return to his ships. 

In 1610 two forts were built atthe mouth of the Kecough- 
tan (now Hampton Creek. ) The forts were named Fort 
H^nry and Fort Charles in honor of the two sons of King 
James, and the territory adjacent of the same name 
was later changed by the House of Burgesses to Elizabeth, 
for the daughter of the King, the reason given for the 




OYSTKi: SHELLS 

change was that they objected to "so heathen a name as 
Kecoughtan." This action shows that Shakespeare's con- 
temporaries in the New World did not believe with him that 
"There's nothing in a name." 

hi 1 716 Hampton had the largest trade of any place in 
Virginia. 

The fu'st child born in the Jamestown colony was Vir- 
ginia Lay den, born in Hampton parish. It is noted that she 
was christened "Virginia," as was also "Virginia Dare," 
the first babe born in the early colony at Roanoke, which 
ended so disastrously. 



42 



St. Johns's QT. JOHN'S CHURCH, built 1657, 

Church burned 1778 — oldest parish in 

America; parish organized 1610. 

Two churches were built by the early settlers in Hamp- 
ton parish before St. John's was erected. The first church 
was located on East Hampton creek; the second on Pem- 
broke farm. These were the earliest places of Christian 
worship in Kecoughtan territory. The record shows that 
in "1 716 there were a hundred houses in the place and no 
church." The pages of history are silent in regard to 
houses of worship during the succeeding eleven years, but 
in 1727 we read that the people quarrelled over the site of a 
new church, and that feeling grew so strong the Governor 
and Council were appealed to for a settlement of the matter, 
and the present Queen street site was chosen, and St. 
John's church is the result of that decision, and though it 
has been tried by fire and sword it stands today a peaceful 
monument to the spirit of church amity, in strong contrast 
to the "Good old times" when its foundation stones were 
placed in the now historic sod. 

The honor of founding the church at Hampton is due to 
a woman — Mrs. Mary Robinson, who gave "two hundred 
pounds sterling by her will, proved in 1618, to founding a 
church." 

A silver communion cup bearing the date of i6i7isa 



i- .- 



treasured relic at St. John's church, being the oldest plate 
in America. 

hi the churchyard is buried the first Surgeon-General of 
the Navy Balfour. He was born in Elizabeth City county. 

The interior of St. John's Church is replete with inter- 
est. To the right of the front entrance is a window given 
by the Indian Students of the Hampton Normal School, at a 
cost of $400. The window represents the baptism of Poca- 
hontas, the hidian Princess. 

The old negro who has been janitor for fifty years re- 
lates the historic incidents with great pride. 

in the pulpit on Sunday morning may be seen the high- 
est type of a Southern gentleman of the Old School, the 
Rev, Dr. Beverly Estell, the Rector, 

The old church records extending back to 1635, fully 
repay the time spent in examining them, 

in 1812 the British forces occupied St, John's Church. 

Report is current that the brick originally used was 
brought from England, but this cannot be verified. It is 
also stated, but not confirmed, that originally the King's 
Coat of Arms was on the steeple but immediately after the 
Declaration of hidependence was signed the steeple was 
struck by lightning, hurling the royai insignia to the ground. 

Monuments in the Churchyard are quaint and curious. 

Near the entrance of the Church there is a record in- 
scribed on a headstone of one who died November 31st. 
The oldest known grave bears the date 1701. 

Here is the only monument known in America to have 



been erected to commemorate the deeds and valor of the 
private soldier of the Confederacy. 

The main entrance to St. John's is guarded by a tall 
weeping willow, one of the grandest of Nature's sentinels, 
its huge spreading boughs enshroud the tombs of the dead, 
cast a shade or reverence over the monument to Southern 
valor and benignly shelters the living as they visit the 
shrine, which, in its holy bounds preserves the annals 
of the past. Earth affords no more fitting spot for the 
stranger, the exile, and the reverent tourist of all lands 
to tune their harps under the shade of the weeping willow 
and to bring their hearts in accord with the lays of their 
native land. 

St. John's Churchyard is the crowning beauty of Hamp- 
ton; were the grounds more extensive, it might well com- 
pare with the Happy Valley on Hong Kong, China. 



. A^ ^'8 Bethel, ten miles north of 

ir-. !.? - Hampton, the first blood of the 

civil war was shed June lo, i860. 
A monument erected by the Daughters of the Confed- 
eracy marks the historic spot. Wyatt was the only man 
killed on the Confederate side; he was a Virginian by birth, 
then serving in a North Carolina regiment. 

46 



XTEWPORT'S NEWS was good news 
_ , ^ 'in ye olden days" and if you 

now visit there you may see what 
energy and thrift can do in building cities in the South, for 
within eleven years it has grown from a hamlet to a 
flourishing city of 30,000. The site of the city first 
appeared upon the map of Capt. John Smith as Poynt 
Hope, and it remains yet a place worthy of its first chris- 
tening. It is a town old in name, but thoroughly modern in 
progress and enterprise. Tradition tells us the place was 
called Newport News from an interesting incident. When 
our forefathers at Jamestown, 20 miles up James River, 
were in a starving condition; they sent to England for aid 
and supplies, and anxiously awaited the return of the re- 
lief ships. The colonists established a lookout station on 
the bluff (which is now the town site) and with great con- 
cern watched day and night for the coming of help. Their 
vigilance was rewarded at the dawn of one bright day 
when a vessel outfitted by Lord Newport hove in sight. 
The watchmen on the out-post were the first to sight the 
ship and immediately messengers were sent up the river 
to Jamestown, away, to proclaim the good news of 
Newport's arrival. The spot was called Newport's News 
in commemoration of the joyful news of the arrival of aid 
and supplies sent from England. 

Local tradition and history are at variance as to how 
the name originated, the latter stating that the place was 



originally called Port Nuce, and later New Port Nuce to 
distinguish it from a place in Wales. 

History records that as early as 1633 '<^ Dutch ship cap- 
tain visited "Newport's Snuw," finding there "a fine spring 
where all the ships stopped to take in water." 

Newport News is situated at the junction of the James 
River with Hampton Roads, it is built on a bluff and as far 
as the eye can behold are magnificent views of the James, 
Elizabeth and Nansemond Rivers flowing into Hampton 
Roads. 

In the early part of the civil war Newport News was 
seized and occupied by the Union Army under Gen. Benj. 
F. Butler, as a strategic point commanding the waterway 
route to Richmond and other towns and positions on the 
James River. Here Butler erected a battery and mounted 
a large gun, with which he finally succeeded in hurling a 
projectile six miles across the mouth of the James, toward 
a Confederate entrenchment. 

Extending from the mouth of the James was a long sand 
bar covered with shallow water, and running several hun- 
dred yards out into Hampton Roads. It was upon this 
point that the Confederate Iron Clad "Merrimac" 
("Virginia") ran the U. S. Frigate "Minnesota" ashore, 
where soon after she took fire from the bombard- 
ment and her magazines igniting she was blown up, hurling 
upward the debris and wreck of this magnificent vessel. 
General Colton, a Frenchman, the Confedlerate General 



commanding in this vicinity, waded out upon the sandbar 
up to his neck in water to witness the strange, but novel 
engagement. When the explosion occurred, throwing ship 
and crew skyward, the Frenchman explained "Eetesze 
magnifique." 




N 1-: W r( ) KT N E WS DR YD( )( ' K . 

In Newport News is located one of the best and larg- 
est shipbuilding and dry docking plants in the world, which 
employs about 7,000 men. Here were built some of the 
best ships of the United States Navy, the Louisiana, Ken- 
tucky, Virginia, Carolina, Minnesota, Tennessse and Kear- 
sarge, and also the large merchantman Korea. 

The plant is situated on the water front and covers one 

49 



hundred and twenty acres of land. It has expended as 
much as three and one half million dollars in wages for one 
year. The largest drydock in the world is here and the 
business has so incereased that a third dry dock is in course 
of construction. 

Crowds of people gather in the city when the great war 
ships are launched with pomp and ceremony, and magnates 
from ali over the country assemble to see the christening by 
some fair hand. A trip through the shipyard of the largest 
ship building plant in America will repay the visitor, for 
you will see from 4000 to 5000 workmen employed who 
have built war ships, cruisers, torpedo boat destroyers and 
great merchantmen. 

Newport News has the largest grain elevator in the 
world and is the nearest seaport for exporting grain, tlour, 
coal and tobacco from the great West and Northwest. Ex- 
ports have amounted to $35,000,000 in one year. 

Newport News is the tidewater terminal of the Chesa- 
peake and Ohio Railway. When the late Collis P. Hunt- 
ington placed the terminus of the C. & O. Ry. here he built 
a town by financial magic. Near the C. & O. Yards are 
large grain elevators and huge coal piers for the loading 
of ships in the export and foreign trade. The extent of the 
foreign commerce may be appreciated when it is known that 
in one day in 1906 there were tippled and loaded from 
these piers 2315 tons of coal. 

Near town during the Spanish-American war was a mil- 

50 



itary camp where troops were rendesvouzed and dispatched, 
in the various expeditions, to Cuba and Porto Rico. Again 
in 1906 Newport News was thronged with blue and khakii 
clad men when troops from all parts of the United States 
were mobilized for the Army of Cuban Intervention. 
Newport News is now one of the U. S, Army Transport 
Stations, where the Transports "Sumner, "Meade," and 
"Ingalls" ply between Hampton Roads and Cuban waters. 

The depth oi the harbor at mean low tide is 28 feet, and 
the largest deep sea-going vessels can tie up alongside the 
piers. This harbor is large enough to afford anchorage 
for the combined fleets of the world. 



IJAMPTON ROADS is an inlet of 
Mamf3t:on Fl ^^^^ Chesapeake Bay, with an 

Roads r eel ., 

area of fifty square miles, one 

coast line measuring eleven miles in length and the other 
two nine miles each. The waterways which empty into 
Hampton Roads are the James, Nansemond and Elizabeth 
Rivers, the latter draining the Dismal Swamp of Virginia 

Hampton Roads is five to seven fathoms deep and can 
furnish anchorage for the largest ships, is a great natural 
harbor and is situated at a strategic point off the Atlantic 
coast. 

From the time the little fleet, Discovery, Good Speed 
and Susan Constant were driven by the fierce storm into 
her safe harbor and there found comfort and shelter, until 



I 



today Hampton Roads has been viewed as a point of vant- 
age, and has played an important part in every step of our 
naval history. 

April 29, 1700, the English Man-of War, "Shoreham," 
encountered and overcome a pirate ship in Hampton Roads. 

in 1775 the British Sloop "Ottie" devastated the coast 
of Hampton Roads. The vessel was commanded by Cap- 
tain Squires, and was the first naval attack by England and 
the beginning of the Revolutionary War. After burning 
Norfolk Lord Dunmore continued to lay waste the coast in 
and around Hampton Roads, until in July, 1776, Lewis, at 
theheadof a Virginia force attacked him on Gwynn's is- 
land; a ball passed through Lord Dunmore's flag-ship, and 
he exclaimed "Good God, that it should ever cometo this," 
and hastily spreading his sails escaped with the prow of 
his vessel toward the sea. Captain Henry Maynard, on 
November 21, 1 781, sailed through Hampton Roads with the 
head of the famous pirate Blackbeard swinging from the 
bow sprit of his vessel and bearing the captive crew, 
thirteen in all, to Williamsburg, where they were hanged. 
The skull of Blackbeard was afterwards made into a drink- 
ing cup and is still preserved as a treasured relic in Vir- 
ginia. 

Decatur sailed from Hampton Roads when he went 
to punish the Barbary Corsairs, this, together with the 
wars with France, England and Spain were glorious vic- 
tories for the American cause, as the fleets which sailed 

53 



from Hampton Roads went forth con(iuering and to con- 
qner. 

In 1807 the British Squardron was off Hampton Roads 
watchin^S' for some French Frigates which had taken 
refuo-e at Annapolis. In the spring a whole boat's crew 
of the British Sloop-or-war ''Halifax" deserted and made 
off to Norfolk. The commander was informed that his 
men had enlisted on the American Frigate "Chesapeake." 
At the same time it was claimed that three deserters from 
the British Frigate "Melampus" had also enlisted on the 
"Chesapeake." Upon investigation it was found that 
these men were native Americans improperly impressed 
into the British Service and therefore not subject to re- 
clamation. 

On June 21st Commodore James Barron assumed com- 
mand of the American Squadron at Hampton Roads. The 
"Chesapeake" started on her cruise. She had hardly 
got under way from Hampton Roads when she was im- 
mediately boarded by a boat from the British Ship "Leop- 
ard," her officers demanding the deserters. Their sur- 
render was refused on the ground that they were Amer- 
ican citizens. A few moments after, the "Leopard" fired 
a broadside into the "Chesapeake," the American ship 
was in no position to return it. A single gun was fired 
as her colors were hauled down ; there being no matches 
at hand it was discharged by means of a coal brought from 
the callev. Three men were killed on board the "Chesa- 



peake", and eiiihteen wounded. Four men claimed as 
Eng'lishment were taken out of her. She returned to 
Hampton Roads the same evening'. This was one of the 
causes that culminated in the War of 1812. 

Early in the spring of 1812. before war was declared 
by Congress, four British barges with all their crews were 
taken as prizes in Hampton Roads by the American Cut- 
ter "Jefferson" supported by th'e Frigate "Constitution." 
A few weeks later Captain David Porter, with the U. S. S. 
"Essex" sailed off on a cruise against the British with a 
flag bearing the motto: 

"Free Trade and States Rights." 

Hampton Roads was the seat of hostilities during the 
war of 1812 Admiral Cockburn who commanded the Brit- 
ish fleet sailed to Hampton Roads, landed at Hampton, 
burned the town, committed untold outrages, and laid 
waste the entire coast, but at Craney Island he was re- 
plused by a force of Virginians. He sailed from Hampton 
Roads up the Potomac, and burned the eapitol at Wash- 
ington. 

Hampton Roads is noted as the scene of the first naval 
battle in which iron clad vessels took part. On ^larch 
9th., 1862, after destroying and blowing up several wood- 
en firigates and men-o-war the Confederate Iron Clad Mer- 
rimac engaged the Monitor in the famous naval duel. 

The battle was fought in Hampton Roads between 



Old Point and Sewells Point, boats which ply between the 
two points pass the historic spot. 

Near the site of the famons battle of the Merrimac and 
Monitor is anchored the hosi)ital ship "Jamestown" 
which was converted from a U. S. Frio-ate the fastest of 
her class in her day. 

In Hampton Roads directly off Point Comfort, Presi- 
dent Lincoln met with the Envoys of the Confederacy for 
council to terminate the war, restore peace and enforce 
the Monroe Doctrine by driving Maximilian from Mexico. 

CZap6 Henry Was named for the son of James 1st. 
The Virginia colonists first disem- 
barked at Cape Henry, but the Indians drove them back 
to their boats and they proceeded to Hampton Roads. 

The colonists erected a wooden cross to mark their 
first landing- place, this has been replaced by a stone tab- 
let. An old light house dating from 1690 still does service. 
Cape Henry may be reached by boat, rail or trolly. 

dhesapeal^e In 1565 Spaniards attempted to es- 

Bay tablish a eJesuit Mission in that part 

of Virginia which is now North Car- 
olina, and Don Pedro Morquez, the Governor of Florida, 
sailed along the coast and entered "The Bay of Santa 
Maria, in the latitude of 37 degrees and a half," which 
is the Chesapeake Bay. The expedition failed. 

The first fleet to discover the new continent was com- 



manded by John Cabot in 1487. The Enolish fleet discov- 
ered the mainland of America and claimed it in the name 
of England. The first landing, and possession and fonn- 
dation of English title. Cabot sailed from New Fonnd- 
land along the Atlantic Coast and passed the mouth of 
Chesapeake Bay going to Florida. 

Powhatan, Emperer of America held full sway along 
the Chesapeake Bay from Roanoke River on the south to 
Tockwogn at the mouth. Chesapeake Bay is the greatest 
inlet of the Atlantic Coast. It is two hundred miles in 
length and varies from four to forty miles in breadth. 
Tt is of sufficient depth for the largest ships to ascend al- 
most to the mouth of the Suscjuehanna. 

The Chesapeake Bay oysters, fish, crabs and canvas 
backs are well known the world over to epicures. 

The English Fleet ])earing the first settlers were driv- 
en by a violent storm into the Chesapeake Bay, the 
"Mother of Waters." 

Its quiet expansive waters have witnessed some mem- 
orable conflicts in the annals of naval warfare. On March 
10th, 1813 the American privateer schooner "Adeline" 
in defiance of the blockade of the Bay by the English 
Squardron under Admiral Warren, sailed in, attacked and 
sunk a British schooner almost under the guns of the 
blockading ships. Shortly afterwards a battle was fought 
on the Bay by four American vessels and seventeen Brit- 

58 



ish barges. One American ship was lost in this eng'ag'e- 
ment. 

Fort Wool is located in Hampton Roads about 
2,200 yards from the water batteries on 
Fortress Monroe. The place was originally called Fort 
Calhoun, and is often called Rip-Raps. It contains fifteen 
acres, and the island is almost entirely artificial. And 
was built by Confederate prisoners during the Civil War. 
It was with great difficulty that a firm bottom was formed 
and huge rocks were brought from distant points for 
that purpose. It was used as a military prison during the 
Civil AVar, named in honor of General Wool, who suc- 
ceeded General Butler in command, and was mounted 
Avith large guns. With Fortress Monroe it guards the en- 
trance to Hampton Roads, and the upper Chesapeake. 

Fort Norfolk As the boat glides into Norfolk 
Harbor, on the left bank of the 
Elizabeth River may be seen an old fort, small and insig- 
nificant it looks and in strange contrast with the buildings 
which tower above it in the bustling city of Norfolk, or 
the long iron piers and huge ware houses so near it. The 
forts usefulness is over, but rich memories cluster 
around the spot and in its day it served its pur- 
pose and was accounted of great value when the 
Knight of the Golden Horseshoe held sway in 

59 



Viro'inia. Batteries were then erected in the fort 
and also on the present site of the U. S. Marine Hos- 
pital opposite. Thus the colonists early fortified against 
the Dutch, Spanish, Indians and Pirates, and secure in this 
coast defence they laid the foundation of the city and 
builded thereon. History does not record why Fort Nor- 
folk's g'uns were silent when Lord Dunmore sailed safely 
up the Elizabeth River and played such havoc with Nor- 
folk on that fatal new year's day. 

In 1794 the title of the ground was vested in the gov- 
ernment as long as it was occupied for military purposes. 
It was used as a military post until the breaking out of 
the Civil War it was seized by Virginia and later turned 
over to the Confederate authorities. It was held by them 
when the Merrimac sailed out on that memorable day to 
encounter the Monitor in Hampton Roads. After the 
evacuation of Norfolk by the Confederates, General Wool 
entered the harbor and again the fort passed into the pos- 
session of the general government. 

The usefulness of the fort ended with the invention of 
long range guns, and Fort Norfolk is now a storehouse 
for unloaded projectiles. Three Guardsmen are on duty. 

[Norfolk Norfolk is on the west bank of the Eliz- 
abeth River eight miles from Hampton 
Roads, and thirty-two miles from the Atlnn Ic Ocean. It 
has a fine harbor easily accessible to the largest vessels. 

GO 



Its entrance is <iuarcled by Fort Monroe and Fort Wool. 

The original site was purchased in 1680 from Nicolas 
Wise for the sum of "ten thousand pounds of g'ood mer- 
chantable tobacco and casks." 

Norfolk was founded in 1705 ; incorporated into a bor- 
oujarh by royal charter from Georgfe II in 1736, and made 
a city by special act of the Assembly in 1845. 

The name means "north people," and was given to the 
town by settlers who formerly lived in Norfolk County 
England. 

On the first day of the year 1776 the British fleet in 
command of Lord Dunmore sailed into the Norfolk har- 
bor and bombarded the town, later the town was fired and 
the only house left of the old city is St. Paul's Church. 

St. Paul's A cannon ball in the wall of Old St. Paul's 
Church Church remains to this day to tell the sad 
tale of war. The beautiful ivy which 
sends its long glossy, green branches over the church wall 
and up the steeple would in silent sympathy cover the 
wound in old St. Paul's side, but the hard bricks brought 
from England in 1739 refuse to release the canon ball from 
their mighty grasp, and though environed by historic 
dead whose conflict has long been oer, and by thousands 
of youth and maidens, who to the peal of wedding bells, 
have marched through the portals of this sacred edifice, 



or sung- psalms in her choir, yet ^rim and grray the cannon 
ball remains, a monnment of war, and needs no inscription 
to bear record of deeds done, as do the white wings of 
peace over the graves of the dead who have peacefully 
slept among these venerable scenes for more than a cen- 
tury. 

In the graveyard below the finger of time is slowdy 
effacing the testimony of good deeds, but a curious hand- 
writing on the wall may still be read: 

"Here lyeth Y body of Wm. Harris 
Whom departed this life.Y 8 day 
Of March 168 % 
Age 35 years." 

A skull and cross bones appear below the inscription. 

This stone is preserved in the outside wall of St. Paul's 
Church, it was found in the ruins of an old colonial church 
in AVeynoke on James River. 

St. Paul's Church is a cruciform, the lot was given by 
Samuel Brouse for a burying ground in 1783, and the 
building w^as erected in 1739 on Church Street near Main. 

In 1778 the Dismal Swamp Canal was begun. 

Norfolk has been honored by many disting'uished visi- 
tors, Lafayette in 1824 and Louis Napoleon, Emperor of 
France, in 1837, April 2nd, 1861 the Confederate flag was 
first raised in Norfolk. In 1861 twelve vessels were un- 
dergoing repair in the Norfolk Navy Yard, among them 

62 



the Pennsylvania, Cumberland and Merrimac. Commodore 
McCanley was directed to get them ready for sea. A 
body of Virginia troops under Gen. Taliaferro entered the 
city, an agreement was made with McCauley that none of 
the vessels should be removed from the Navy yard ex- 
cept in self defence. McCauley gave orders to burn or 
scuttle all the vessels except the "Cumberland." Capt. 
Paulding succeeded in command of the Navy Yard and 
undertook to complete what McCauley had begun. The 
Pensylvania was burned to the water's edge, the Merri- 
mac scuttled and the "Cumberland" sailed away. The 
"Merrimac" was raised, converted into an inroriclad and 
her name changed to "Virginia." 

Norfolk was the chief naval depot of the Confederacy 
until it was found necessary to concentrate all the forces 
to the defence of Richmond. The Confederates evacuated 
Norfolk, May 1st, 1862, and May 10th, 1862 the Federals 
occupied it and retained possession until the end of the 
Civil War. Brig. Gen. Viele was appointed Military Gov- 
ernor. November 19th, 1864, Lincoln, by proclamation 
opened the port of Norfolk. Vessels of the largest capac- 
ity load at Norfolk wharves. 

Hundreds of acres of the surrounding land are devoted 
to truck farming and daily shipments of fresh vegetables, 
fruit and oysters are sent to northern ports. 

Trade is facilitated by three canals; Norfolk is the 
terminus of several railroads: S. A. L. ; A. C. L. : Tidewa- 



ter, Richmond ; Potomac and Fredericksburg and Norfolk 
and Western, and is connected with Richmond, Baltimore, 
Boston, Philadelphia, N. Y. and Washington by regular 
lines of Steamers. 

Is the largest peanut market in the world. 

A commercial and exporting center. 

A large shipping point for cotton. 

St. Vincent de Paul Hospital is an important adjunct 
to the place '^The Academy" is designed after the pan- 
theon at Athens. A monument to the Confederate dead, 
was erected in Commercial Place, leading to the Ports- 
mouth Ferry. 

Portsmouth is situated on the W. bank of the 
Elizabeth River, opposite Norfolk. 
A ferry boat plies between the two cities every few min- 
utes. Portsmouth was founded in 1752, on the land of 
Wm. Crawford. 

Cornwallis was stationed in Portsmouth in 1776 ; May 
11, 1779, the British forces took possession of the town 
destroying all naval and military supplies. 

October 10th, 1780 Brig. Gen. Leslie, landed his troops 
and took possession. 

Bendict Arnold in command of 1700 men landed in 
Portsmouth in December, 1780; the first of January he 

64 



marched on to Richmond, devastated the city, and re- 
turned to Portsmouth. 

In a skirmish at Greenspring' in 1781 Lord Cornwallis, 
having defeated Lafayette, the gallant young- Frenchman 
who so valliantly espoused our cause at the age of 23, 
returned to Portsmouth for a short time before going to 
Yorktown, in the meantime writing home" The boy cannot 
escape me." Later Cornw^allis met "the boy" at York- 
town where Washington's line formed a crescent, with 
Lafayette commanding the forces on the right that vic- 
torious day. 

The old dry dock in Portsmouth is of interest. The 
Federals attempted to blow it up April 20th, 1861 the 
Confederates also attempted to destroy it, when, later, 
they evacuated. 

At the breaking out of the Civil War the Federals held 
the Navy Yard at Portsmouth, Commodore McCauley be- 
ing in command. On May 11th, 1861, he sailed away after 
setting fire to the ships and destroying everything that 
could be of service, the Confederates soon after took t\v) 
place and held it until May 10th, 1862, when they, in turn 
destroyed everything before evacuating. It was in the 
Portsmouth Navy Yard that the old Merrimac was remod- 
eled and made an ironclad, and called the "Virginia," 
and steamed out from this dock to become famous. 

Relics may be seen at the navy yard of the arms and 
ordance used in past wars. 

GO 



Great Brids^e At Great Bridf^e, 20 miles from 
Norfolk, the British erected a fort 
only approachable by a causeway through a morass. The 
American forces under Col. Woodford were here attacked, 
and here the gallent Captain Fordyce at the head of 60 
Grenadiers, was killed, and his force retreated under fire 
from the Culpepper "Minute Men" whose flag exhibited 
a coiled rattle-snake with the motto "Don't tread on me." 
John Marshall, afterwards Chief Justice of the U. S. 
was a Lieutenant in this Company. 

Williamst3Urs is seven miles from Jamestown, 
and was chosen for the State capi- 
tal after the burning of the State house in Jamestown, 
when the colonists had realized that a more healthful lo- 
cality was necessary for the preservation of the peopie. 
It was laid out in 1632 and orig:inally known as "Middle 
Plantation." Governor Nicholson in 1697 founded the 
town of Williamsburg. It was named in honor of, and 
received its charter from the King. It is the oldest in- 
corporated city in America and here for the first time a 
State building was called "Capitol." It remained the 
seat of Government until 1779, when the capital was re- 
moved to Richmond. 

The first newspaper in America was published here 
and called "The Gazette." 

The place where absolute religious freedom was pro- 
claimed. 



First elective legislative body to assemble on the Con- 
tinent. 

Here the flower of Viclginia's aristocracy proved the 
possibility of being on friendly and social terms with the 
English Governors with whom they were in political en- 
mity. 

The site of the first theatre in America, the mighty 
Garrick trodding its boards. 

Here Governor Spottswood started the first iron foun- 
dry, and was dubbed therefor the "Tubal Cain of Vir- 
ginia." 

Thirteen of the captured crew of the famous pirate 
Blackbeard were brought here and hung. 

The headquarters of Washington in 1780, which was 
later the residence of Chancellor Wythe may still be seen 
near Brut on Church. 

The courthouse planned by Sir Christopher Wren in 
1769, is standing. 

The old brick "Powder Horn" or Magazine stands op- 
posite the courthouse. It is of an octagonal design and 
has stood well the wear and tear of time, since Governor 
Spottswood built it in 1714. During the Revolutionary 
War Lord Dunmore removed the amunition from the 
Powder Horn and stored it on board his man-of-war. The 
people, headed by Patrick Henry, arose en masse to re- 



sist the indignity, when Lord Dnnmore reimbursed the 
treasury for the supplies. 




POWDKIi HOKX. 

The "Palace" was the executive mansion. It was 
burned during the Revolution. A stone monument marks 
the historical spot, it is now utilized for a school building. 

A stone monument has been erected by the Association 
for the preservation of Virginia Anticjuities, on the site 
of the old House of Burgesses, which long ago was de- 
stroyed bv fire. The site is at the end of the Duke of 



Gloucester Street, about one mile from William and 
Mary's College which is at the other terminus of the 
street. Between these two Historic points have been en- 
acted scenes more vital to the nation than any other ter- 
ritory of equal extent. Times' devastating march has 
laid in ruins places we vain would visit today, but free- 
dom's soil is still there and is consecrated ground. 

The Powdered wigs, satin coats, and silver buckles, the 
habiliaments of the body, we do not see, but we hear the 
echo of "Treason Treason" as the uncouth youth, in 
rough garb, and disheveled hair, eye flashing-soul on fire^ 
concludes that mighty fiat with "If this be treason, make 
the most of it." And in thus denouncing the Stamp Act 
struck a mighty blow for liberty. And the famous "Vir- 
ginia Resolves" embodying the principle "No taxation 
without representation was the fruit which necessarily 
followed, and which in its turn paved the way for the 
Declaration of Independence, and the Bill of Rights. 

Wiliamsburg was the place where Jefferson wrote the 
Declaration of Independence and has been the seat of 
councils of war, treaties of peace, of constitutional as- 
semblages, and of intrigues in love and war. 

Although one woman was here early condemned for 
being a witch, it did not prevent her daughters of a later 
day from being so bewitching as to enthrall the hearts of 
the gallant cavaliers. Here men lived, loved, strove and 
conquered fate, and the peaceful scenes of today mark 



the spot of former activity and although the builders of 
the Republic have long since returned to the native ele- 
ment of man, yet the principles for which they fought 
still live. 

The ' ' Six Chimney Lot ' ' the home of Martha Washing- 
ton when she was the Widow Custis, is located beyond 
William and Mary's college near the hospital. 

Bruton Church in Williamsburg, is claimed to 
be the oldest church in America where worship has been 
continuous. The interior of the church has recently been 
restored to its pristine splendor, and entering its doors 
is like taking a step into the past, the high backed pews 
are now memorials to former occupants who having 
"served their day generation" passed from time to eter- 
nity. 

Recent gifts to the church are a Bible, and a lectern 
on which it rests, presented respectively by the King of 
England and the President of United States. 

Old Bruton Church was designed b.y Governor Spotts- 
wood, that man of divers gifts, who never failed the col- 
onists in affairs of either church or state. The present 
church was completed in 1715 and has been in continuous 
use longer than any church in America. The parish was 
founded 1632, second church erected 1683. 

Five Presidents worshipped in Bruton Church, namely. 



Washiii<iton, Jefferson, Madison, Monroe and Tyler. 
Among the other familiar ones who answer the roll call 
of History, and and are also enrolled in these sacred ar- 
chives are Wvthe, Blair, Beverly, I-/ee, Mason, Carey, the 




OLD HUrTON CHURCH. 

Randolphs, the Pa«'es the Harrisons, ^Marshall and Patrick 
Henry. 

Bruton is now the only church in America bnilt and 
paid for when church and State vv^ere one, it was nam.ed 
in memory of Bruton in Somerset County, Eno-land. 

A number of tablets of ancient dates adorn the yv\alls. 

In the seventeenth century, for burial in the chancel. 



a charge was made of one thousand pounds of tobacco, or 
five pounds sterling, and in the church five hundred 
pounds of tobacco, or fifty shillings. There are three sil- 
ver sets of communion service, the oldest was brought 
from the church at Jamestown and was donated by 
Francis Morrison the second, a covered cup and a patten, 
was given by Lady Gooch, and is called the "Queen 
Anne" service, the third bears the royal coat of arms of 
George II on chalice, flagon and alms basin. 

The metal in the old church bell is of great value, and 
the tones sent out on the air are of peculiar sweetness. 
There is a tradition that one of the English Gueens threw 
her golden jewels into the glowing mass of metal, when 
it was being moulded, and that in gratitude for the act, 
the bell-metal has since given out only the softest and 
sweetest tones. 

The church yard contains the sacred dust of our de- 
parted ancestors, the inscriptions on the moss covered 
stones are quaint and curious and awaken deep medita- 
tion. The spot is a hallowed one, and there we may read 
"sermons in stones" as we linger unwilling to leave the 
cherished scenes. 

Raleigh Tavern, where the Burgesses met after their 
dissolution, has long since fallen into decay. It was sit- 
uated on Gloucester Street. 

Gloucester Street from one end to the other has been 
the scene of many historic events. Should Rip Van Win- 



kle awaken in Williamsburg: he would be convinced that 
a map of the old world had been placed on the soil of 
the new. For while going toward England, Ireland, Scot- 
land and France streets he would pass both Duke and 
Prince streets, and walking down Gloucester Street as 
he entered the college campus, the statute of Lord Bote- 
tourt would be the first object to meet his sight, and turn- 
ing to the left he would see the house built by Louis XVI. 

William and Mary The College founded by Dr. 

Ooll^S^e James Blair in 1692 has been 

burned three times, first in 

1705, while occupied by the General Assembly, rebuilt by 

Gov. Spottswood in 1781 ; later occupied by American, 

British and French troops. 

Entire library and interesting relics destroyed by fire. 
Building was burned during the Civil War, and the vaults 
containing remains of many noted dead were desecrated, 
and everything of value stolen. 

The College was originally endowed by William and 
Mary with "a penny a pound on all all tobacco shipped 
from Virginia and Maryland to other states, the duties 
on furs and hides, and by 20,000 acres of land." 

The site has been used for a college since 1660. 

Christopher Wren planned the buildings in the shape 
of a square, Dr. James Blair was the first president of the 
college and served in that capacity for fifty years. 



Georg-e Washing^ton was made Chancellor of the col- 
lege in 1788. College buildings were used for barracks 
during the Civil War and until the city was evacuated in 
1862. The statute of Lord Botetourt was erected on the 
site of the old capital and was later removed to the col- 
lege grounds. 

As we sit on the Campus and read the inscriptions 
loved ones have placed on the monument of Lord Bote- 
tourt shadowy forms seem to solemnly pass by and enter 
the College Building. The tall man in front with noble 
and dignified mien is the first chancellor of the college, 
George Washington, and the hurrying forms that flit by 
us and hasten to answer the roll call are college students. 
We draw near and if w^e remain with attentive ear, we 
may hear in mystic tones such famous names as: John 
Tyler, John Marshall, James Monroe, Thomas Jefferson, 
Randolph 1, Randolph 2, George Wythe. And as we 
linger in dreams Ave traverse the great length of days 
with a bound and beginning with Winfield Scott we 
hear the endless roll call of honored ones, who drank 
deep from the wells of knowledge at this historic fort. 
William and Clary's College has been tried by fire three 
times but so firm is her foundation that each successive 
building has been erected thereon with greater promiseii 
of triumph and glory. 

The colonial building to the left is the residence of 
the president of the college. It was accidently Inuned by 

75 



the French in 1732, and replaced from the private funds 
of the French Sovereign. 

As in colonia 1 times, on the banks of the "Noble 
James" stands an ancient mansion within Carter's Grove, 
memories of the old place have been preserved in sonu: 
and story. The six miles distance from William and 
Mary's did not deter the college boys from forsaking 
study halls on moonlight nights, to seek the mystic deil 
and sing love ditties to the belles of colonial days, and we 
are told that once upon a time Thomas Jefferson was so 
enamoured of a famous beauty, dwelling within the man- 
sion walls, that he forgot to dream of a Declaration of 
Independence and stealing out with his fiddle and bow, he 
strode out into the night, and under her window he 
touched the strings of the violin and the plaintive chords 
responded to his throbbing heart, and told in sweet 
strains his willingness to pledge his loyalty to the Queen 
of Beauty. 

In the College Grounds the grand old trees have stood 
for more than a century, and their long branches wave 
over the stone brow of Berkeley, Lord Botetourt, whose 
statute has weathered the storms of time, and stands a 
reminded of old colonial days when he governed by royal 
will. The statute was erected on the old capitol site at 
the extreme end of town and was removed to the college 
grounds in 1797. 

In the summer the old trees grace with their shade the 

76 



reverent tourist, and freely bestow all that is left of the 
pomp and glory of ancient days. The riotious and ser- 
ried foliage of the mammoth trees is all the luxury that 
greets the eye, but sitting beneath the green mantled 
rugged limbs of the stately elms in the college campus, 
in full view of the statue of Lord Botetourt, the atmos- 
phere conducive to revery will soon overwhelm the dream- 
er and transport him to the scenes of "ye olden times" 
and he may revel in the joys of days that have paid their 
tribute to the shrine of votive memory. Wandering in 
the realm of the magnolia he may see Martha Washington 
planting the old elm tree which grows close to the Martha 
Washington Kitchen near by, may see Washington, the 
lover, riding up the Kings Highway, gallantly and gra- 
ciously returning the courtesies and salutations of the 
day, later to be captured by the charms of the lovelv 
Widow Custis ,to whom he surrenders graciously and un- 
conditionally. 

Then fancy thrills to sterner times when the gallant 
booted and belted Lafayette kissed the extended hand of 
the warrior Washington, as they meet for the first time in 
the fori: of the road to the left of the college. A turn to 
the right and you behold the chivalrous Spottswood 
leading his "Knight of the Golden Horseshoe" out of the 
travelled path of the "Kings Highway" to adventures 
and good camaradie as they journey to the rugged crest 
oi the Blue Ridge to view the legendary ocean beyond. 



It was in Williamsburo- that Mary Johnson found the 
home of "Audrey" which the residents tell you in on 
Dunmore Street. This name causes a rude awakening 
from the pleasant dream, and your restless eyes catch 
glimpses in the dim distance of the "Palace Green" and 
you search in vain for the palace built thereon by the col- 
onists in honor of Governor Spottswood, who brought 
from across the trackless seas the great writ of English 
Liberty, the Habeas Corpus. The palace has long since 
returned as dust to "the sacred soil of Virginia," but on 
the Green there looms a mound, which in an emergency 
was used by Lord Dunmore, the man who was as sincerely 
hated as Spottswood was be loved. An opening leads to an 
underground passage, called " Dunmore 's Cave" which 
traditions states was stored with arms and ammunition 
for the tyrant to use in case the outraged people should 
seek justice for the wrongs done them in the name of the 
King's Laws. But this despot was doomed to rlee to the 
high seas for safety and left his munitions of oppres- 
sion behind him. 

The House of Burgesses was called together for tlie 
last time by royal order in 1775. The first hospital for the 
insane was built in Wiliamsburg. in 1773 and is located 
near William and Mary's College. 

Both armies claimed victory in the battle of Wiliams- 
burg, fought on May 5th, 1865. 

78 



Green Spring The ruins of Greenspring are 
abont seven miles west of Wil- 
liamsburg and four miles from Jamestown. 

Greenspring was so called from a ''very fine green 
spring that is upon the land — so cold that 'tis dangerous 
drinking thereof in summer time." 

An estate of more than a thousand acres was located 
at Greenspring granted to Governor Berkley by the Quar- 
ter Court in Virginia, a mansion was built thereon the 
ruins of which may still be seen. It was later the home of 
Col. Philip Ludlow who married the widow of Berklev. 
In 1697 the General Assembly met for one session at 
Greenspring but the Royal commission ordered the ses- 
sion to be resumed at Jamestown. 

It was while living at Greenspring in 1644 that Sir 
Wm. Berkley after 20 years rest from Indian attack was 
called upon to quell the last Indian invasion led by the 
old blind chief Opechancanough, who was captured and 
afterwards killed by a guard. 

It was to his manor house at Greenspring that Berk- 
ley withdrew when Virginia passed from the King under 
the Comonwealth of Cromwell. 

Greenspring was Bacon's headquarters when he cap- 
tured the wives of the enemy and declared his intention 
of placing them in ''the forefront of his men" to pro- 
tect them while they built the breastworks," the "white 
aproned" guard, served this purpose and was released. 



In 1781 Cornwallis defeated Lafayette in a skirmish 
at Greenspring, remains of breastworks may still be seen. 
Greenspring was the home of the Lee Family at an early 
day. The tombs of many distingnished people may still 
be seen there. 

Lord Cnlpeper, Governor of Virginia in 1683, had his 
residence in Greenspring. 

It was at Greenspring that Bac;)n withdrew after ront- 
ing the enemy on York River and where he cheered his 
tired soldiers with the words : 

"Come on, my hearts of gokl ; he that dies in the field 
of battle, sleeps on the bed of honor," wherenpon they 
marched forward and met and overcame Gov. Berkley's 
soldiers, who abandoning the field took ship and sailed 
away. 

January 24th, 1676 Sir Wm. Berkley while Governor 
held conrtmnitial at Greenspring where death sentence 
was pronounced on Col. Crews and Captain Cookson and 
Digby, participants in Bacon's rebellion, and these men 
were hanged near the first Glass house in America. 

The cause of Bacon's death remains a mystery, tradi- 
tion says that his friends sunk his remains in the York 
River that his enemies might not desecrate the body after 
death. Bacon was a hero at the age of 28, a young Vir- 
ginia rebel of 1676. He was the first man in America who 
declared sword in hand that he would die rather than sub- 
mit to an invasion of his rights, and it is significant that 

80 



one hundred years passed before another American 
clasping the hilt of Bacon's sword again demanded inde- 
pendence. Bacon the revolutionist of 1676, and Wash- 
ington the revolutionist of 1776 were both Virginians and 
should receive a like homage. 

Jamestown The James River Canal can be seen 
while sailing up the James River to 
Jamestown. George Washington was the first president 
of this canal. 

Jamestown was the first English settlement in America 
to survive the stress of early perils. After the one hun- 
dred and five colonists on the "Discovery," "Good 
Speed," and "Susan Constant" entered Chesapeake Bay 
they proceeded to look for a suitable landing place, as 
King James had commanded them to locate at least one 
hundred miles inland so as to be protected from possible 
attack by the Spaniards. The colonists selected what was 
then a peninsula, but is now a small island about forty 
miles up the James River and there landed on May 13th, 
1607, built a stockade fort, and called it "Fort James," 
later "James City" and finally "Jamestown" in honor of 
the reigning King. 

The three ships sailed from England under the com- 
mand of Sir Christopher Newport. En route Captain 
John Smith was arrested on the charge of entering into a 
conspiracy to be made "King of Virginia." Upon arrival 
at Jamestown he was tried by a jury and acquitted. 



On landing the colonists opened the sealed box of Roj^- 
al orders and found the names of the seven councillors. 
All were incompetent except Smith and Gosnold. Wing- 
field was president. The first religious services were held 




J A M i<:s'r( ) w \ ( "H rH( 'H 



by Rev. Robert Hunt under an old rotten tent stretched 
between the trees. The ordinance of the Lord's Supper 



82 



was celebrated once in three months while the \o^ church 
was being- built. 

In September 1607 fever and famine devastated one- 




TKUNK UF OLJ) TREE AT JAMESTOWN 



half of the colony, the dead bodies were burned that the 
Indians mig-ht not be able to count the iiraves and thereby 
gain knowledge of the small nnmber of white men left. 



83 



Jamestown was the place where the 90 maids sent 
over from Eng^land landed and the smokers of that day 
were each willing to sacrifice 120 pounds of tobacco to 
obtain a wife. iL^i^ 

The first car^o of slaves was landed in Jamestown from 
a Dutch man-of-war in ^WS, much against the protest of 
the colonists. In March 1622, Opechancanough, successor 
to Powhatan massacred 374 colonists. The chief was cap- 
tured and later killed by his guard. 

In 1608 Jamestown was destroyed by fire. The brick 
church, the first Protestant church in America, was built 
between 1615 and 1620. It had a loophole watch tower, 
and the old ruins may still be seen. The incapacity of 
Wingfield and other incompetents brought on a starving 
condition and inspired a popular uprising which culmina- 
ted in Smith taking charge of affairs. Under Smith the 
colony became communistic in that he ordered all the 
products to be brought into a public storehouse, where a 
treasurer was in control and who apportioned out supplies 
as they were needed. Smith here established the first In- 
ductive Industrial and Economic Policy in America when 
he issued his "No work, no eat" decree. On Smith's return 
to Jamestown from a second expedition to procure food 
he found Eigfield and Kendal had seized the "Pinnance" 
and were attempting to escape to England. Kendal, the 
leader, was tried by a jury, found guilty and shot. This 
occurred in 1607 and was the first execution in Virginia. 

84 



While at Jamestown, Smith wrote his book titled 
"Smith's True Relations of Virginia.' ' This was the first 
contribution to American literature. In 1608 he sent the 
manuscript to England where it was published. 

In 1609 Captain John Smith, severely wounded by the 
accidental explosion of a bag of gunpowder, resolved to 
return to England. He had been the central figure in the 
up-building of the colony and like most benefient workers 
of all ages met the fate of persecution from incompetents 
who had official favor in the home land. Smith left a 
record of such kindness to the alien race that he won the 
respect and homage of Powhatan, and Pocahontas loved 
and called him" Father," and his success as a colonizer 
was largely due to the fact that while he was loyal to his 
own country he also recognized the rights of the Indians 
and treated them with uniform courtesy and justice 
Cook's History of Virginia records that his work lived in 
spite of the active oposition of "Wingfield the imbecile, 
Newport a tale bearer, Radcliffe a mutineer, Archer an 
agitator, and Martin a cat's paw, and all that loose and 
floating element found in every society which hangs on 
and waits and instinctively takes the side which promises 
to be the strongest, " and in the face of'wranglings antag- 
onists who had gone to England and effected by intrigue 
what they failed to effect by force, he won lasting re- 
noun." The "lobbyists in London bowing low to the 
Right Honorable" succeeded in deposing Smith, and he 

85 



sailed away to the home land sick in body and sonl at the 
ingratitude of a government for whom he had fought in 
war and served in peace. But the plotters could not up- 
root the good he had done. He had firmly laid the foun- 
dation of civilization and his success with an alien race 
was due to the fact that he treated with them. He be- 
lieved in the "Brotherhood of Man" and he lived up to 
the Royal Charter which contained the missionary senti- 
ment "That so noble a work may by the providence of 
God hereafter tend to the grlory of His Divine Majesty." 
And because of the stand he took, and the battle he fought 
almost aloi^e, he stands today the central fiorure of the 
Ter-Centennial celebration, and all his villifiers go down 
to history shorn not only of their power but also of the 
borrowed g^lory they once wore. America has "not lost 
the breed of noble blood" for in her colonization among 
alien races today has risen another Smith, (James F.,) 
whose benign influence has worked for pacification and 
"benevolent assimilation" and who will likewise with 
honor go down to history, notwithstanding the opposition 
of some "clothed with a little brief authority." History 
offtimes repeats itself. Smith of the twentieth century, , 
like Smith of the sixteenth century, succeeded inTaymg 
the firm foundations of good government in a foreign land 
by an insistance on Justice to all men whether red, white, 
or brown. 

In 1610 about a year after Captain John Smith's de- 

86 



partnre for Ens^land the cliscouraf]red colonists, with bit- 
ter tears stripped their cabins and went on board their 
vessel to sail for England, abandoning Jamestown. Be- 
fore they were out of Hampton Roads, they sighted a sail 
which proved to be the vessel bearing their new Gov- 
ernor, Lord Delaware. They returned to Jamestown, re- 
ceived the new governor with military honors. That noble 
lord knelt and returned thanks that the seed of English 
liberty was still to survive in America. 

In 1624 the doctrine of ''No taxation without repre- 
sentation was first promulgated at Jamestown. James- 
town was burned by Bacon, September 19th, 1676. State 
House was burned October 31st, 1698. 

General Assembly April 1699 passed an act removing 
the capital from Jamestown to Williamsburg. 

Two battles were fought near Jamestown in the Rev- 
olutionary AVar, just previous to the surrender to Corn- 
wallis. 

There is nothing left of the old settlement at James- 
town, except the brick tower of the church, and the 
church yard, where the oldest tombstone thai: can be de- 
ciphered bears date of 1698, yet the place is held so sacred 
that thousands of people year by year visit this hallowed 
spot in "The Cradle of the Republic." 

The ruins of the church tower, which served as a 
shield to the colonists in times of attack by the red men, 
and the earthen breast-works erected during the Civil 



War, today stand face to face. Both are now covered with 
living green, thus does Mother Nature kindly hide the 
wounds of the dead past and gladden the eye of pilgrims 
as they visit the spot made sacred by the blood of ances- 
ters who died from Indian massacres and fratracidal war- 
fare. 

"Lest we forget" in this Ter-Centennial Celebration 
to "render honor to whom honor is due," it were well to 
lift the misty veil of the past and find the one whom Cap- 
tain John Smith delighted to honor. Desiring that En- 
gland should honor the Indian Princess by a recognition 
of her services he wrote a letter to the Queen declaring 
that Pocahontas "next under God was still the instrument 
to preserve this colony from death, famine and utter con- 
fusion, which, if in those times has once becomed dissolved, 
Virginia might have lain as it was at our first arrival to 
this day," and the Queen and the Royal Court vied with 
each other in honoring this Woman who so heroically 
played her part in the great drama of life three centuries 
ago when "Wilderness was King" where the Jamestown 
Ter-Centennial Exposition is held today. 

Smithf ield The site of the lodge of the War- 

ascoyack Tribe of Indians when 
the colonists arrived in 1607. Old St. Luke's Church, 
built in 1632 is in a fine state of preservation. It is an al- 
most exact counterpart of the Jamestown Church. 



parnOUS Many famous colonial homes lift 

CZolonial aloft their columns on the banks of 

Momes the James River. 

''Brandon" the beautiful Colonial Home of the fa- 
mous Harrison family, which was owned in 1617 by Cap- 
tain John Martin ''the only man who protested against 
the abandonment of Jamestown in 1610." Fine portraits 
by old masters still adorn the walls, among them the por- 
trait of the Southern Belle, Evelyn Byrd. This home was 
famed during colonial days as having the finest library in 
America, owned by the most accomplished man in the 
colony. Colonel Byrd, the founder of Richmond and Pe- 
tersburg. 

"Westover" was built in 1787. It was occupied by 
Benedict Arnold, the traitor, on his road to Richmond. 
General Pope had quarters here during the Civil War. 
The oldest tombstone in Virginia is here, bearing date of 
1687. 

"Bacon's Castle," on lower Chippoke Creek, erected 
in 1660, one of the oldest brick houses in Virginia. It was 
fortified during Bacon's Rebellion. 

"Burrow's Hill," near Jamestown, the grand old 
home of the Brown family for two centuries is still stand- 
ing. In the family burying ground is a tombstone dated 
1650. 



90 



"Malvern Hill," the old mansion is still to be seen, 
owned by Colonel Richard Cook in 1639. 

^' Shirley ' ' was the home of the wife of ' ' Light Horse ' ' 

"Berkley"," Home of Benjamin Harison, who was the 
"I^^Harry Lee. Famons old portraits are preserved herg, 

among them one of General Washington, 
■^father of Colonel Benjamin Harrison, signer of the Decla- 
ration of Independence, and the birthplace of President 
William Henry Harrison. 

"Tedington," built in 1717 was owned by the Light- 
foot family. It was on the site of the old Indian town of 
Paspahegh. 

YorktOWn The vicinity of Yorktown has been his- 
toric ground since the landing of the 
Colonists, for on the York River was Uttamussac, the 
great national temple of the Indians, and Werowocomoco, 
the chief place of council of Powhatan, the Emperor of 
Virginia. In these mystic wilds dwelt his beautiful daugh- 
ter, called by the colonists, Pocahontas, the name signify- 
ing "bright stream between two hills." Mataoka, her 
name among her people, was never to be spoken by 
strangers for there prevailed a superstition among 
the Indians that a knowledge of their true names 
placed them under the evil spell of strangers. It 
was among these forests that Captain John Smith was 
taken captive, bound and lu-oiiglit before Powhatan, con- 

91 



elemned to death by the chief and the tribes, and saved by 
the intervention of the heroic girl. Patriots and lovers 
delight to stroll among these historic scenes weaving ro- 
mances which encircle the lives of the two prominent per- 
sonages who have made history. 

In strong contrast to the early deed of mercy was the 
tyranny practiced in later days, for on this soil Sir John 
Harvey arrested Martian, Potts and English and bonnd 
them in chains. When asked the cause of their commit- 
ment he replied "They shall know at the gallows." It 
was indeed a fitting place for the surrender of Cornwallis 
and the end of oppression. 

A short distance away is "Bellfield" the residence of 
Edward Diggs governor of A^irginia in 1655. William 
Warren's home is also here. 

The Yorktown church ha-s withstood the wreck of time 
and is still used as a place of worship by the few people 
who inhabit this hisoric spot. In the churchyard lie the 
remains of the famous Nelson family. 

The Colonial Inn was a place where our forebears con- 
gregated to discuss the questions of the day. Among the 
famous inns of former times was the "Swan Tavern." 
The original tavern, built in 1722, was ])urned during the 
Civil War. 

The "Nelson House," one of the famous homes of old 
Virginia is located in Yorktown. It was built in 1740. 
The house is large and commodious and with its garden 

92 



of old fashioned llowers fitly represents one of the early 
homes of the F. F. V's of Virginia. The house was the 
headquarters of the Connnandino- officer of the British 
forces durino- the last sie.ee of the Revolutionarv AVar, 



^ 



■:'m 



s'ii{i':i<;r ix ^oHKrowx 
when a cannon liall struck tlie corner, entering the house 
and tearing the marble mantel from the wall. (JeiuM-al 
Nelson, the large souled hero who lived in the house at 
the beginning of the Revolution also owiu^d another 
house in the subburbs of Yorktown, occupied by P>ritish 



troops. General Nelson, of ready mind and o-enerous 
heart commanded his soldiers to fire into the house, connt- 
ino- as naught the personal loss of his property. When 
the troops hesitated he offered five firuinea to the soldier 




MOORE HOl^SE. WHKRK TERMS OF SURRENDER WERE S1(4XEI). 

firing the first shot. The spirit of personal sacrifice, which 
is the supreme test of patriotism, was contagious, and each 
soldier instantly fired his best shot and the old mansion 
with its cherished hearthstone was soon in ruins. 

A cave where CornAvallis took refuge during the bom- 



bardment is near. About a mile from Yorktown is the 
"Temple Farm," where the ruins of an old temple may be 
seen. This building- is supposed to have been used as a 
place of worship, and also as a fort in the event of an In- 
dian attack. This double use of a buildiu"' shows how 
far we have progressed in the art of peace during the 
three hundred years. At the beginning of our history we 
preached Peace from the pulpit with one eye on a loop- 
hole in the church wall looking for war, today we preach 
Peace from our pulpits and prepare for war by building 
forts a little beyond the church walls. 

A short distance from the ruins of the old temple on 
Temple Farm is the "Moore House," built in 1713, and 
reported to be the summer home of Governor Spotts- 
wood, and the place of his burial. The Moore House is 
of special historic interest as the place where the terms 
of surrender were drawn up and signed when the bell 
rang the death knell to our enmity toward England. 

No tourist in Virginia fails to visit Yorktown, the place 
where the curtain fell on the last scene in the great drama 
of the American Revolution. Out of the blood and car- 
nage rose an Independent Nation which has fulfilled the 
promise at its birth, and verified the comment of Washing- 
ton on that great historic day that "The work is done, and 
well done." 

A stone monument erected by (Congress marks the spot 
where Lord Cornwallis surrendered to the American 

9-3 



Forces on (Jetober If), 1781, and bears the inscription 
"One destiny, one country, one constitution." Engraven 
on the monument are tri])utes to the heroes who partic- 
ipated in the t»iory of that dav, and hiah on Fame's mon- 




I'li;: 



roAi iioi 



umeiit with tlie names of Washington and Nelson are the 
names ('ompte de liochambeau and Compte de Grasse, 
publishing- to the world our debt of gratitude to France 
who came to our aid in the hour of need. 

The first Custom House built l)v our forefathers in 



1715, is standing', a monnment to the bnilders of that day. 
One mile from Yorktown are the earthworks of Fort 
Magruder, the battle ground of McClellan and Johnson's 
forces in May, 1862. 

Dismal The famous lake of the Dismal Swamp, 

Swamp a few miles from Norfolk is reached by 
the Dismal Swamp Canal. Washington projected the 
canal in 1787. It was dug by hand, and is 82 feet wide 
and 8 feet deep, for a length of 22 miles. Washington 
regarded the Dismal Swamp as of great value on account 
of its large forest preserves. The Dismal Swamp has been 
immortalized in song and story, Tom IMoore versing its 
tradition of the lovelorn maid. 

Smith Taken On December 16th, 1607, Captain 
daptive John Smith embarked on a voyage 
toward the South Sea. For some unknown reason he 
turned into the Chickahominy and proceeded up the 
stream stopped by the shallows. With a canoe and some 
Indian Guides he continued his voyage with two compan- 
ions, leaving the remainder. Reaching White Oak S.vamp, 
east of Richmond, he landed, was atacked and captnred 
l)y Indians. He was taken before their Chief, Opechanca- 
nough, l)rother of the Emperor Powhatan. The Indians 
killed his two companions, and Smith was bound, lashed 
to a tree and ordered executed. But when he exhiluted a 
small compass, the Indians were so ama::e:l tbat he was re- 



leased, and was sent under guard to appear beiore Pow- 
hatan. While in captivity, Smith was waited upon by the 
Queen of Appomattock. Tnese aboriginal Virginians 
were content to be ruled by women. History records, a 
Queen of Paspaheghs. Beverly says that in 1700 the Pun- 
goteague was governed by a Queen, that Nandyne was the 
seat of the Empress and that the Empress has the shore 
tribes "under tribute." 



Powhatan The first Emperor of Virginia, was 
Powhatan, who ruled the Powah- 
tans, and over thirty other tribes of Indians inhabiting 
the territory called Tidewater Virginia, extending from 
Chesapeake to the Piedmont, 8000 square miles, 8000 sub- 
jects and 2400 fighting men. 

Chief places of residence — Powhatan, below Rich- 
mond, birthplace of Powhatan, Orapax, on the Chicka- 
hominy, Werowecomoco, on the York River was the chief 
place of council. 

Uttamussac, on the York River was the great national 
temple of the Indians. 

The Powhatans believed their God Okee or the one 
alone called Kewassa came to earth once. On a rock be- 
low Richmond about one mile from James River may be 
seen gigantic footprints about five feet apart — these, the 

98 



Indians said, were the foot prints of Kewassa as he walk- 
ed through the land of Powhatan. 

A party of men from Jamestown sailed up James 
River and visited Powhatan at his lodge near the present 
site of Richmond. 

Richmond Richmond was founded in 1742 on land 
belonging to Colonel Byrd, who was ac- 
counted the most accomplished man in America. He own- 
ed the finest library on the continent and Richmond from 
the beginning was peopled with master intellects and in 
refinement and culture has lived up to the example of 
her founder. 

The State Capitol at Richmond, was begun in 1779, 
here are preserved as relics — the Old Speaker's Chair and 
a stove from the House of Burgessess in Williamvsburg. 

Thomas Jefferson dedicated a plot of land in Richmond 
upon which a building was to be erected and know^n as 
the American Academy of Letters. This Academy was to 
be to the new nation of America, what the Paris Academy 
or Arts is to the French. The Academy was soon burned, 
and then rebuilt. On an occasion when the Governor of 
Virginia, his staff, officials, society, the beauty and gentry 
of the countryside and distant plantations had gathered 
as a brilliant assemblage to witness the first night produc- 
tion of a new^ play, the Academy again caught fire and Avas 
quickly burned with such disastrous effects that the Cov- 

L 0; mi 




OLD liKlAj TOWKU. 



ernor and many prominent people were nnmbered amon^ 
the victims of the holocanst. The remains of the dead 
were bnried npon the spot, and to commemorate one of 
the saddest events of that day, the present Monumental 
Church was erected on the site of the Academy, divine ser- 
vices are regularlj^ held above the grave possessed in com- 
mon by the dust of beauty, aristocracy and sturdy yeom- 
anry. For years the church had a rector whose visage, 
features and mien so resembled the unhappy J. Wilkes 
Booth that rumor and morbid speculation proclaimed him 
to be indeed the great actor assassin of Lincoln. Weird 
tales were recounted in secret how he escaped his pursur- 
ers and donning the ministerial garb, devoted the remain- 
der of his life to deeds of mercy. And those who sat un- 
der the matchless eloquence were enthralled by his ora- 
tory. His advent and antecedents before coming to Rich- 
mond remain a mystery. He is said to have been a pro- 
found Shakesperean scholar, that the climaxes of his 
sermons were intensely dramatic, and that he trained his 
only daughter for the stage. These facts lent color to the 
rumors. To escape the annoyance of curiosity seekers 
and the melancholy gloom surrounding him, he suddendy 
disappeared. No one knew whence, nor has any one since 
been able to fathom the mystery. 

"Richmond by the James" has been called the Modern 
City of the Seven Hills and is midway between the sea 
and the mountains. Her citizens have suflPered the tur- 



bulence of the one in her Indian, Revolutionary and Civil 
Wars and have risen to the heights of the other w^hen 
swept by the sublime eloquence of Patrick Henry as he 
proclaimed for liberty or death. 

Old St. John's Church whose walls rang with the elo- 
quence of the early patriot is built in the shape of a cru- 
ciform and is visited by the liberty loving of this day. 

Benedict Arnold burned Richmond January 5th, 1781 
and every street is replete Avith memories of the sad havoc 




he made of the city. It was near Richmond that Lafay- 
ette led the American forces to meet General Phillips who 
marched against Richmond, but "The proudest man of 



102 



the proudest nation upon earth" declined to attack the 
young* Frenchman. 

The Headquarters of General Washington may still be 
seen on Main Street near 20tli. 
^ Libby Prison was situated on Carey St., near 14th. 

The Confederate Hospital was on 17th and Broad 
Street. 

General Beauregard's Headquarters were on 2nd 
Street, and were later used as a Confederate Hospital. 

The Powder Magazine at the right of the Alms House 
was fired by the Confederates to prevent the ammunition 
from being used by the Union Army. 

A fine view of Richmond and the historic James liiver 
may be seen from the Capitol, also the Battlefield 's ot 
Drewry's Bluff and Seven Pines, and hills and valleys 
clothed with living green eight months in the year. 

The earthworks around Richmond may still be seen, 
the only works comparing in scientific construction with 
them were those erected to defend Washington, D. C. 
Military strategists and students from all nations have 
come here to study the works and defences around Rich- 
mond, which Vv^ere thrown up during the Civil War. 

Nearly every foot of land surrounding Richmond was 
battleground during the Civil War, but Dutch Gap Canal 
is the only military construction of all that were done by 
the army, which remains of use to the country in time of 

103 



peace. Dutch Gap is cut in James River, and is fourteen 
miles south of Richmond. 

Among the interesting sights at Richmond are the 
monuments erected in honor of Virginia's great sons. The 
equestrian statue of George Washington is surrounded 
by statues of Patrick Henry, Thomas Jefferson, George 
Mason, Thomas Nelson, Jr., John Marshall and Andrew 
Lewis. The statues of Henry Clay and Stonewall Jack- 
son loom up in marble and bronze, not far from the eques- 
trian statue of Robert E. Lee. 

Hollywood The graves of Jefferson Davis, his 
wife and daughter are in Rich- 
mond's Historic City of the Dead. Mrs. Davis died in 
New York October 16, 1906 and the remains were taken 
to Richmond and buried in Hollywood. The casket was 
escorted to the railroad station in New York by a funeral 
guard of United States Troops. This is the only instance 
on record where such an honor was accorded a w^oman. 
The funeral took place from St. Paul's Protestant Episco- 
pal Church. 

Varina Varina or Aiken's Landing was in an early 
day the county seat of Henrico County. It 
is noted as the place where John Rolfe and Pocahontas 
resided after their marriage. Varina during the Civil 
War was used as a place for exchanging prisoners. 

101 



dold Harbor Cold Harbor is only a few miles 
from Richmond, and here was 
fought one of the bloodiest battles of the Civil War. 
Grant lost over ten thousand men in the two or three 
hours of the deadly duel. It was here that Grant took 
out his watch and said "If I do not hear Lee's guns with- 
in ten miutes Richmond is ours,' but with in five min- 
utes Lee's artillery opened up the gates of hell and Rich- 
mond was not evacuated until one year afterwards." 

Mlail VCrn Mill was named in happy remem- 
brance of some of the hills in En- 
gland. An old Virginia mansion is still standing on Mal- 
vern Hill which is said to be one of the best specimens of 
colonial architecture in the Old Dominion. Malvern Hill 
is the site of one of the bloodiest conflicts of the Civil War 
betvv^een Gen. McClelland and Gen. Joseph E. Johnson. 

INatural Natural Bridge of Virginia 14 miles 

Bridg^^ from Lexington is one of the wonders 

of the world. It is a single block of 
lime stone made up of many colors. The arch is from 40 
to 60 feet wide and top of the plain is 200 feet above the 
strenm Avhich flows beneath the arch. Many names are 
carved on the bridge, George Washington when a youth 
carved his name high above them all, but, James Piper a 
youth of our day has succeeded in climbing from the foot 
to the top of the rock. 

105 



Hanover This is the birth place of Henrj^ Clay and 
home of Patrick Henry. The old Court- 
house was erected in 1735. Stewart was killed in an at- 
tack by Sheridan a short distance from this point. 

Alexandria Alexandria early struggled to be 

the capital of the Republic. 
Christ's Churcn is the favorite historic spot in this region. 
Here the Father of His Country worshipped. Washington 
Avas Worthy Master of the Masonic Lodge of Alexandria. 

Mount IMount Vernon not far distant is the beau- 

Vernon tiful plantation where Washington took 
his bride. It was named in honor of Ad- 
miral Vernon, a popular naval hero of the day. The beau- 
tiful banks of the Potomac are lined with historic places 
from its mouth to Mt. Vernon, where reposes the dead 
hero. It has been rumored that his body has partially 
petrified and lovers of the marvelous foster the belief that 
some day the remains of the father of I'is country will be 
preserved in stone. 

Arlington The beautiful home of General 

Robert E. Lee in Ante Bellum 
Days was here. It was confiscated during the war and 
bought later and used by the Government as a National 
Cemetery, the most beautiful in America where the old 
soldiers peacefully find a last resting place. 

10() 



Manassas Beauregard and McDowell fought 

the first battle of Bull Run near here 
July 21st, 1861. The second battle of Bull Run occurred 
August 30, 1862. Three miles from Manassas a monument 
is erected to the Confederate dead. The earth works still 
remain. 

dulpeper Culpeper has a national cemetery 

where fourteen hundred Federal Sol- 
diers are buried. From this place Grant started on his 
Wilderness Campaign. Here Lee entrenched after the 
Battle of Antietam, and after Gettysburg Meade pursued 
Lee to Culpeper. The Army of the Potomac encamped 
here during the winter of 1863. 

Orange On a plantation two miles from Orange, 

Zachary Taylor was born. All the adjacent 

country was used as a battleground during the Civil War. 

Montpdicr one of the famous man- 

sions of Old Virginia is located here. It 
WHR the home -of President Madison. 

Gordonsville Lee had his headquarters here 

before the Wilderness Cam- 
paign. An engagement took place here in December 1864. 

Charlottsville Charlottsville was the tempo- 

rary Capital of Virginia in 1781 
wlien Benedict Arnold drove the Legislature from Rich- 



mond. Monticello the home of Thomas Jefferson is two 
miles east of Charlottsville. As he went to Washington, 
alone on horseback, to take the oath of office as president, 
so he returned eight years later. He lies not far from the 
university that he loved so well. 

Charlottsville was the home of three Presidents — Jef- 
ferson's at Monticello; Monroe Hill and Ash Lawn, were 
homes of Monroe, the former at the University Campus. 
''Montpelier" President Madison's home was twenty miles 
away. The University of Virginia is called the Cradle of 
Ambition. It is claimed that the immediate vicinity of 
Charlottsville has produced more great men than any 
other territory of the same dimensions in the United 
States. Charlottsville is the birth place of General George 
R. Clark who added Ohio to the Republic in 1783. It is also 
the birthplace of Lewis and Clark who following a path- 
way, led by a beautiful Indian girl explored the great 
Northwest Territory and added to our national domain. 

"Pen Park" is the place where William Wirt, the first 
Attorney General of the United States lived. The Hes- 
sians, who were Revolutionary War prisoners were con- 
fined here in "The Barracks." 

The Legislature of Virginia on January 12, 1803 passed 
an Act incorporating the Albermarle Academy, which be- 
came the Central College and ultimately the University of 
Virginia. The corner stone of Central College was laid 
October 6th, 1817 in the presence of Thomas Jefferson, 

108 



Rector, and James Madison and James IMonroe, the latter 
then President of the United States. The board appoint- 
ed by the Governor met August 1, 1818 at the Tavern in 
Rock Fish Gap on the Blue Ridge Mountains and adopted 
the report regarding the organization of the University. 
January 25, 1819 the Legislature adopted a formal act 
''For Establishing a University." 

The University of Virginia is the child of Jefferson's 
old age and long did he plead with the State Legislature 
before he succeeded in establishing it. To convince them 
that Charlottsville was the most available place to locate 
the seat of learning, it is said that he cut from card board 
the figure of Virginia, pierced a hole through it at the 
point where Charlottsville is located and inserting a pen- 
cil therein revolved the card upon it, thus demonstrating 
to the law makers that Charlottsville was the geographi- 
cal center and hence most suitaole for a seat of learning. 
Charlottsville has fulfilled every promise made for it and 
the University of Virginia is the leading university of the 
South. The young men who win her degrees are gentle- 
men today, who show no diminution of the cavalier spirit 
of the past. 

Jefferson drew most of the sketches of the buildings, 
basing them upon designs by Palladio. 

The buildings are unique in architecture, planned by 
an artist as well as an architect, and are a delight to the 
eye. They are like an old Italian monastery. The origi- 

109 



nal group planned by Jefferson consists of four parallel 
rows of structures and at one end stands the Pantheon- 
like rotunda. Every part of the building is a work of 
classic art and is a joy forever to the lover of symmetry. 

Af ton Afton is at the summit of the Blue Ridge 
Mountains where Governor Spottswood led 
his Knights of the Golden Horseshoe. On his return home 
he presented each Knight with a diminutive golden horse- 
shoe, set with diamonds and rubies, sending the bill to 
the King. His Majesty refused to approve the account. 
From the apex of the Blue Ridge may be seen the beauti- 
ful valleys of the Piedmont and Rock Fish, fifteen hiui- 
dred feet below. 

Staunton Staunton was named in honor of Lady 
Staunton, wife of Governor Gooch and 
was incorporated in 1788. In 1781 when Benedict Arnold 
drove the legislature out of Richmond, the members took 
refuge first in Charlottsville and later in Staunton. The 
Shenandoah Valley is in this region, and also Luray Cave. 
The Cave covers forty acres of land. Sheridan gained 
control over the Shenandoah Valley by a decisive action 
at Waynesboro. 

Lexins^ton The seat of the Virginia Military 

Institute, and the Washington and 
Lee College, the remains of Gen. Robert E. Lee and Stone- 
wall Jackson repose here. 

no 



West West Point is known for its beauty of loca- 

Point tion. Five counties converging on the York 
River, are in full view. The town had long- 
been established before an act was passed incorporating 
towns during the reign of Queen Anne. 

Two participants in the Bacon Rebellion were hung in 
chains at West Point by Sir Wm. Berkeley, and others 
who had sought refuge in the Dragon Swamp were hung 
to the limbs of the "Royal Oak ' tree in Middlesex Coun- 
ty. The town was early fortified by the revolutionists of 
1676. 

Washington had his Headquarters at West Point in an 
old stone marl, long since in ruins. 

The Confederate and Union Armies held the town in 
succession in the Civil War. Fortifications built by the 
latter in 1863 may still be seen. McClellan occupied West 
Point in the Peninsula Campaign and used the White 
House, the home of the Lees in New Kent County as a base 
of operation. On the site of the White House once stood 
the mansion of Martha Curtis, in the days of her widow- 
hood. 

Marpcr's Here the fire brand and agitator, John 
Ferry Brown was captured after making his 

famous raid through Virginia to liber- 
ate slaves and destroy property of slave holding planters. 
After being captured by U. S. Troops under command of 



Colonel R. E. Lee, he was tried by the State Courts of 
Virginia. His trial was a memorable one and Governor 
H. A. Wise utilized every power available to the State 
to insure that the accused should receive a fair trial and 
not suffer at the hands of violence. The State furnished 
him counsel, and protected him with the State militia. 
He was condemned and executed. 

Winchester The early settlers of Winchester 
were principally Germans. It was 
laid out as a town in 1712. A portion of Fort Loudon, 
built bv Washington in 1754 is still standing. The situa- 
tion of Winchester is the key to the valley of the Shen- 
andoah. During the Civil War Winchester was held in 
turn by the Confederate and Federal forces. Sheridan 
"twenty miles away" obtained the information on which 
to make his attack on Winchester from Miss Rebecca 
Wright, a school teacher at that place. She wrote the de- 
sired information on a piece of paper, wrapped it in tin 
foil, and gave it to a negro man who secreted the tin foil 
under his tongue, got through the lines and reaching 
Sheridan's Camp delivered the message which conveyed 
the information on which the attack was made. At a re- 
union twenty years after the war, General Sheridan ac- 
Ivuowledged the service of Rebecca Wright by publicly 
presenting her with a gold watch and chain, and suspend- 
ed from the chain were gold pendant charms wrought in 

112 



the shape of the implements of war — a diminutive drum, 
sword, rifle and canteen. General Sheridan in thus hon- 
oring the woman honored himself, and showed that he 
regarded the honors he gained in that historic battle great 
enough to be shared with another. 

Chancellorsville At the beginning of the Civil 

AVar Chancellorsville was a sol- 
itary brick Mansion surrounded by a few out buildings 
standing in a clearing on the verge of a wild region 
known as "The Wilderness.^' If each stone had a voice 
in this wilderness the visitor of today might hear plain- 
tive sounds issue therefrom similar to those coming from 
the desolated battlefield of Wagram, which moved to 
anguish the son of Napoleon. Chancellorsville was the 
site where Jackson received the wounds which caused 
his death. With a small escort he had ridden out to re- 
connoitre. Turning back he was fired upon by his own 
men who mistook the company for enemies. He received 
several wounds from vv-hich he died a week later. 

Lexington This is the seat of the Virginia 

IMilitary Institute, The Washing- 
ton and Lee University and the tombs of Robert E. Lee 
and Stonewall Jackson may here be visited. 

Petersburg Here occurred one of the blood- 

iest engagements of the Civil War. 
After Grant had exploded his mines, blowing up Wise's 

ii;5 



Brigade, he made an early morning' attack on the surpris- 
ed Confederate Lines. Lee threw three divisions in the 
breach at the point of attack, and as their formation was 
in echelon the carnage was fearful among the Union For- 
ces. The crater on the exploded mine is 200 feet long, 
60 feet w^ide and 30 feet deep and is known in military 
annals as "Hells Half Acre." The crater and trenches 
may still be seen around Petersburg. 

iMatoax, a mile from Petersburg was the home of 
John Randolph, father of John Randolph of Roanoke. 

Appomattox Twenty miles east of Lynchburg 

CZourt Mouse was made famous April 9th, 
1865, when Gen. Robert E. Lee surrendered the army of 
Northern Virginia to General Grant. The illustrious 
Commander in-Chief of the Confederate Army "wept 
tears of blood" at the conditions which drove him to 
take up arms against the Union. He "recognized no nec- 
essity for this state of things," but Virginia called him 
and he obeyed the call. So great and magnanimous was 
this man that even the enemies of the Southern cause con- 
ceded the purity of his motives. When Lee laid down 
his arms at Appomattox and surrendered his sword to 
Grant the hour had come for fratracidal vv^ars to cease. To 
our fathers dueling was thought to be a necessity, and 
those who prophecied an end to this desecration of man- 
hood, were called "dreamers," but today dueling is a 



crime, and one man dares not take up arms against an- 
other to redress a wrong. So great progress have we 
made in the belief in the majesty of law that we gladly 
submit our personal wrongs to a court, and we accept the 
decision when twelve jurors have arbitrated the matter. 
If it be a crime for one man to war against another, is it 
not a greater crime for a multiple of men to resort to 
force when they conceive themselves wronged? What is 
wrong for an individual cannot be right for a nation. 
The great Peace Congress assembled in New York in April 
was made up of men and women from every nation, who 
met for the purpose of furthering the cause of Arbitra- 
tion, and so great was the intensity of purpose of those 
who love life that the people who sat under the spell of 
matchless oratory heard in the distance the deathknell 
of war, and saw in the future a fulfillment of Christ's 
prophecy that "Wars shall cease." The plan of Lyman 
Abbott, so extolled by platform and press, is as old as 
Christianity. No nation could live if it were cut off from 
all other nations, therefore no nation would long refuse to 
arbitrate. 

General Robert E. Lee was great in peace as war, as 
the president of Washington College, he cheerfully, pa- 
tiently and laboriously devoted his last days to the youth 
of the countr}^, and were he living today he would no 
doubt be a leader in the great peace movement. He is 
said to have died of a broken heart, the world could not 



afford to lose him, and at his death all sections united 
in pajnng tribute to this man of heart and brain. 

"The drapery of heaven hung low 

In dark and gloomy shrouds ; 

The angel's used the weeping stars 

In pinning back the clouds. 

The shades of gloom and woe prevailed 

Over all the land and sea, 

And eyes that were unused to tears, 

Now wept for Robert Lee." 



Scwdl's Sewell's Point is named for Henry Sea- 
Point well, a member of the House of Burges- 
sees in 1639. 

The first engagement in the Civil War in Virginia oc- 
curred at Sewell's Point May 19, 1861. 

Sewell's Point is the place from which the three slaves 
of Colonel Mallory escaped during the Civil War. They 
sought protection at Fortress Monroe. General Butler 
after securing what information they could give concern- 
ing the fortifications the Confederates, were building at 
Sewell's Point, put the negroes to work at Fortress Mon- 
roe. It was at the conference concerning the release of 
these negroes that the phrase "Contraband of War" was 
used by General Butler, who held that this paved the way 



to President Lincoln's Emancipation Proclamation eigh- 
teen months later. 

Here the Confederates threw np breast works and 
erected batteries. Where the ''Monitor" retired to the 
protection of the guns of Fortress Monroe after her duel 
with the "Merrimac," the Confederate Iron Clad with- 
drew to Sewell's Point. 

When Norfolk was evacuated, the ''Merrimac, " des- 
troyed by her crew and Johnston's Army retired to Rich- 
mond, the works at Sewell's Point were destroyed by the 
troops that constructed them. 

The Powhatan Oak 355 years old may be seen at the 
water's edge on Sewell's Point, when Sir Ralph Lane first 
discovered the land bordering on Hampton Roads and 
Chesapeake Bay, August 15th, 1585, the tree was thirty 
years old. Powhatan long ruled this Tidewater Region. 
The Pocahontas Spring is a short distance away. 

Jamestown Ter-Centennial 
Exhibition 

Official name : Jamestown Ter-Centennial Exposition. 

Character: Military, Naval, Marine and historic ex- 
hibition. 

Nature : State, National and International historic cel- 
ebration. 

Purpose : Commemoration of the first permanent set- 
tlement of English-speaking people in America. 



Distances; from Exposition g:ronnds : Norfolk City 
limits, five miles; Fortress Monroe, four miles; Old Point 
Comfort, three and a half miles; Newport News, five 
miles; Portsmouth, eight miles; Ocean View, three miles. 

Exposition grounds reached by electric railway, steam 
railw^ay and steamship. 

Location : On shores and waters of Hampton Roads, 
near Norfolk, Portsmouth, Newport News and Old Point 
Comfort, Virginia. 

Exposition area : Five hundred acres of land and ten 
thousand acres of Hampton Roads. 

The Jamestown Exposition has three miles of water 
front — two and a half miles on Hampton Roads and a 
half mile on Boush Creek. 

Two sides of the Exposition grounds are inclosed by a 
high wire fence, covered with honeysuckle, crimson ram- 
bler rose and trumpet creeper vines. 

The Exposition's great military drill plain contains 
thirty acres, surounding by trees and pretty walks. 

A canoe trail, two miles long and twelve feet wide, 
runs from Boush Creek, which flows into Hampton Roads 
through the most interesting part of the Exposition 
grounds. 

A romantic winding trail, called Flirtation Walk, fol- 
lows along Canoe Trail for more than a mile. 

The various State buildings are all near the water 
front, and from these can be seen ships and steamers go- 



ing out to sea and coming in from all parts of the world, 
as well as the grand naval display. The navies of the 
world are assembled in Hampton Roads. 

The Jamestown Exposition is a historical study of 
the past 300 years. 

The prevailing style of architecture at the Exposition 
is the Colonial. 

Many of the exhibit buildings and all of the States' 
buildings are to be permanent structures. 

More than a million flowers, shrubs and trees are al- 
ready growing on the grounds, and others are being- 
planted. 

Jamestown Exposition Buildings. 

The Hall of Congress; Mining and Metallurgy Build- 
ing; Smelter; Manufacturers' and Liberal Arts' Palace; 
Machinery and Transportation Palace; States' Exhibit 
Palace ; Graphic Arts Building ; Pure Poods Building ; 
History and Historic Art Palace ; Education Building ; 
Pocahontas Hospital; Mothers' and Children's Building; 
Children's Model Playground; Model School; Model 
Schoolroom ; Iron Shops, in Arts and Crafts Village ; 
Pottery Shops, in Arts and Crafts Village ; Copper, Silver 
and Woodworkers' Shops, in Arts and Crafts Village; 
Textile Building, in Arts and Crafts Village. 

Grand Piers: 1,400 feet long, from Exposition grounds 
into Hampton Roads, 800 feet wide ; connected by cross 

ny 



pier 1,200 feet long at a distance of 1,400 feet from shore. 
Marine Building-; Place of Commerce; The -'War Path," 
with a myriad of new and gorgeous attractions from 
many lands. 

Two hundred State, National and International con- 
ventions, conferences and conclaves. 

State Most of the State Buildings are 

Buildins^S on the water front on "^Yiuough- 

by Boulevard. The prevailing 
style of architecture is colonial 
and each state has as far as possible built on the plan of 
her most famous colonial building. Massachusetts repro- 
duces the old" State House" in Boston, one room of which 
is a replica of the old council chamber where James Otis 
fought against the Writ of Assistance ; Connecticut, the 
'^Talmadge Home" where lived the member ol Washing- 
ton's Staff who was commissioned to execute the British 
Spy, INIajor Andre; Georgia, "Bullock Hall," the home of 
President's Roosevelt's mother; New Jersey, General 
Washington's Headquarters at Morristown ; Pennsylvania, 
"Independence Hall" in Philadelphia; Maryland, the col- 
onial home of Charles Carroll, one of the signers of the 
Declaration of Independence, one of the rooms in this 
building being a facsimile of the old Senate Chamber 
in Annapolis, where General Washington resigned his 
commission as Commander-in-Chief of the Army ; New 
Hampshire, the "Langdon Home". Ohio, has a reprodue- 

120 



tion of ^'Adena" the first stone house built west of the 
Alleghany Mountains; Kentucky, Daniel Boone's fort, 
the logs being brought from Boonesboro. The fort is fit- 
tingly located in a grove of trees. Missouri with Dakota, 
Louisiana, Illinois, West Virginia, Vermont, Rhode Island, 
Delaware, North Carolina and Virginia have all followed 
the colonial style, and New York reproduced "Arling- 
ton," the home of General Robert E. Lee at the outbreak 
of the war. In the Virginia building is hung the "Poca- 
hontas ' • bell cast by the ' ' Pokahuntas ' ' Bell Association 
at Baltimore. Numerous family heirlooms were melted for 
the bell. Among the most valuable of these relics were 
]\Iajor John Pelham's spur, Chief Pugallop's bracelet, 
nails from Libby prison and a piece of the Merrimac ar- 
mor plate. The bell weighs over 500 pounds. 

The effect of entering the States Building in the Expo- 
sition City is to be transplanted "To ye olden times" and 
the welcome received in each building equals the famous 
hospitality of the Old Dominion. 

The "Powhatan Oak," near the Water Front is 355 
years old, and under its long branches have sat the In- 
dian and the white man smoking the pipe of peace. "Po- 
cahontas Spring," back of the Pocahontas Hospital, is 
as fresh and sparkling as in the old days when this heroic 
maiden drank thereof. 



INDEX 



Afton 

Alexandria . 
Algeroune Fort 
Appomattox . 
Arlington 
Big Bethel . 
Bruton Church 
Buckroe Beach 
Cape Henry 
Chamberlin Hotel 
Charlottesville 
Chesapeake Bay 
Chickahominy River 
Cold Harbor 
Colonial Homes 
Culpeper 
Dismal Swamp 
Fort George . 
Fort Norfolk 
Fort Wool . 
Fortress Monroe 
Gordonsville 
Great Bridge 
Green Spring 
Hampton 



PAGE 
I lO 
1 06 

14 
114 
106 

46 

71 

28 

57 

12 
107 

57 

97 
105 

90 
107 

97 

15 

59 

59 

14 
107 

66 

79 

38 



PAGE 



Hampton Creek . 


35 


Hampton Roads . 


51 


Hanover 


106 


Harper's Ferry 


III 


Hollywood . 


104 


Jamestown . 


81 


Jamestown Exposition 


117 


James River 


90 


Lexington 


no 


Malvern Hill . 


105 


Manassas 


107 


Map 


54 


Mount Vernon 


106 


Montpelier . 


107 


National Cemetery 


33 


Natural Bridge 


105 


Newport News 


47 


Norfolk 


60 


Normal, Hampton . 




Harper's Ferr}^ 


III 


Old Point Comfort 


12 


Orange 


107 


Petersburg . 


113 


Phoebus 


28 


Pocahontas . 


104 


Poynt Comfort 10, i^ 


U 15 



123 



PAGE 



PAGE 



Portsmouth . 


6i 


Powhatan 


' 98 


Richmond 


99 


St. John's Church 


43 


St. Paul's Church 


6i 


Sewell's Point 


ii6 


Smithfield 


88 


Soldier's Home 


30 


State Buidings 


120 



Staunton 


no 


Varina . 


104 


William and Mary 




College 


74 


Williamsburg 


66 


Winchester . 


112 


West Point . 


III 


Yorktown 


91 



FROM OLD POINT COMFORT, VIRGINIA. 



Via: C. & O. 
R. R. to 



Williamsburg to -; 

Richmond. [ 

Hanover. 

Alexandria. 

Manassas. 

Culpeper. 

Orange. 

Madison. 

Charlottesville. 

Afton. 

Staunton. 

Clifton Forge. 



Yorktown, 12 miles. 
Jamestown, 7 miles. 
Green Spring, 4 miles. 

All by Carriage. 



Phoebus, about i mile. 
Soldier's Home, i 1-2 miles. 
From Old Point Comfort, to Normal School, 2 1-2 miles. 

Hampton, 3 miles. 
Newport News, 10 miles. 
Take .any street car at Main Wharf. 



Norfolk. 
Portsmouth. 
Ferry Boats from Old Ocean View. 
Point Comfort, to Hampton. 



James River route to 



Sewell's Point. 
Exposition. 



Old Colonial Homes. 

Brandon. 

Shirley. 

Claremont. 

Westover. 

Jamestown Ruins. 



Take Old Dominion S. S. Co. and the Virginia Naviga- 
tion Co. boats. 



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